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Maverick Buttress
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Boot Hill T 
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Guy on a Buffalo T 
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Hot Toddy T 
Just the Tip! T 
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 
Mustang Man T 
Quickdraw S 
Rawhide T 
Round-Up T 
Saddle Sores T 
Short Crack T 
Steers and Queers T 
Tequila Sunrise T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Hot Toddy 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler and Jack Roberts January, 1987
Page Views: 5,494
Submitted By: Hill on Mar 24, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (115)
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Pat Kingsbury. Fall 2005

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Hot Toddy is an obvious right facing dihedral located on the southeast face of Maverick Buttress. The route starts on top of a boulder with a step into a wide spot with some easy stemming. Place a cam up high (to keep from pulling your belayer off the boulder should you fall) and it's off to the races! It's perfect hand jams up the corner for the next 70' with a few spots where you can get a right foot on the face. The last 5 feet is wide but should pose no real threat. Descent: Rap 80' to the gr


Lots of #2 and #3 camalots. A few #3.5 and #4 camalots can be used too.

Photos of Hot Toddy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: March, 2002
BETA PHOTO: March, 2002
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost to the perfect hands section.
Almost to the perfect hands section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Hot Toddy.
Climbing Hot Toddy.
Rock Climbing Photo: mmm good!
mmm good!
Rock Climbing Photo: Joseffa Meir follows 'Hot Toddy (5.10)' at Maveric...
Joseffa Meir follows 'Hot Toddy (5.10)' at Maveric...
Rock Climbing Photo: starting up...
starting up...

Comments on Hot Toddy Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 11, 2015
By Hill
Apr 3, 2002

The more demanding route just to the right, Tequilla Sunrise share these anchors and can be top roped easly. After the tricky fingers start it's perfect hands all the way up! Do it!! ...........................................................
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 12, 2002

gee, thanks for keeping us all in check there Ben.

By Bryson Slothower
Apr 13, 2002

I'd have to grade this one A+, C'est La Vie...huh?

By Hill
May 28, 2002

I left the original rating of 5.10b in the description out of respect for who ever climbed it first and gave it the rating. I've got to agree with Ben that this route is easier than many other 5.10b's. The comment section of this site is the more appropriate place to carry on this conversation instead of down grading the route, in my opinion. I'll tell you one thing though, it's much much easier than Incredible Hand Crack which is a 5.10c!!!!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 1, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The climb is pretty good, but not really 'interesting' enough for me to give it 4 stars. I liked Gunsmoke and Tequilla Sunrise more.

The grade is probably hand size dependent. I have pretty small hands and I found some awkward moves there- which were sustained to give a good pump. I thought the climb had no really hard moves, but here's the question, "Would a 5.9 climber on-sight it?" I doubt it sincerely. So it's a 5.10. I'd just warmed up on the "11b" a few routes to the right and found this 10b to be more difficult. I also found it more difficult overall than Tequilla Sunrise (10d) but admittedly, I can get my mitts in T.S. and they rattle in H.T.

So I guess the discussion of grades in Indian Creek and the surrounding area comes from a few places. The first of which is that all of them are so hand-size dependent that they are hard to make sense of, so people jaw about them a lot. The next reason is that people are trying to figure what routes they can and can't likely do, or what their accomplishment level really is. It's an interesting conversation for some people, so why not let them have it? It isn't hurting you.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 1, 2004

Oh and another thing. All of the beta on this site is starting to really take the adventure out of climbing. In response to Ben's above comments, recommending a route to somebody based on grades and ability is a bunch of bullshit. Learning to be a good climber means you can look at the pitch and decide for yorself. Can I protect it if it looks hard etc. etc. etc! Learning to think for oneself and not need the bullshit beta often offerred on this website is crucial in becoming a safe and competent climber. End of story.
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Feb 24, 2009

Interesting comments and partially true. Fully lame coming from an AC though.
By Brad Brandewie
Feb 25, 2009

AC wrote "Oh and another thing. All of the beta on this site is starting to really take the adventure out of climbing."

This is ridicules. If one wants adventure then don't use any guidebook, online or otherwise. Just go out and walk up to the rock and start climbing. If one comes to this site and reads a route description and all the comments about that route and then complains that they got too much information then I have no sympathy. What did they expect?

This site or the existence of guidebooks doesn't take any adventure away unless you choose to allow it to do so.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Mar 23, 2009

After a couple days with the spring break crowds on Wall Street, we escaped to Maverick Buttress for our last day.

I got on this yesterday, and backed off with my tail between my legs. In my excitement to get on it, I didn't eyeball it thoroughly from the ground. I expected to be able to place several #2 camalots. Once I got on it, and pulled the start, I discovered it was gonna be 65 feet of #3 camalots...and I only had 3. I don't have the best eye for guessing size, and perhaps there are a couple places where you could place a #2, or a flare to take a #4, but I didn't see it that way, and had to down aid.

Those with a heavier sack or bigger guns than I may be happy to lead this on less gear, but I'd want at least 6 or 7 #3 camalots. The start protects with a #4 or 4.5 camalot, and the short offwidth at the finish will take a #5 (or a deeply placed #3, according to another climber who did Tequila Sunrise).

Definite MUT DO if you like #3 camalot size!

Shares anchor with Tequila Sunrise, sweet 10+ splitter with tight hands start .... I would have loved to give this a try but was spooked after down aiding the first 20 feet of Hot Toddy. I'll be back in the fall!

By Darren Knezek
May 10, 2009

FA= Charlie Fowler and Jack Roberts, January, 1987.
By Miller
From: Salt Lake
Jun 7, 2010

1 #4, 2 #2's and 2 #3's min.
also, this thing is a refrigerator.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 8, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I placed a #2 at the base where the handcrack starts and then nothing but #3s all the way to the top. A larger cam can be placed in the offwidth at the top but it'll frog you a bit. A #3 could be placed in the back anyway.
By Jedly
May 11, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This was my first REAL 5.10 handcrack and I thought I'd shoot right up it. Dang, was I wrong. It's long and sustained. I have small hands so my hand jams were pretty tough. I then tried doing fists all the way but my fist was a bit to big. I had just climbed El Cracko Diablo on Wall Street and thought that was way easier.
Bring LOTS of #2's and #3's of camalots. I didn't have enough and had to keep bumping up a few pieces. When I return I definitely want to get this one clean. It's a great line!! Best thing was no one else was around! Except for lots and lots of Jeeps. Did this during the Jeep Easter Parade. HA!

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