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Hot Tips 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: D Cuthbertson, R Anderson, Sept 1980
Page Views: 47
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Sep 8, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Hot Tips Topo

Description 

Pull up from the good hold at the start to gain a small crimp for your right hand. Pinch the arete with your left hand and whip your feet onto the starting hand hold and slap up for the under cling.

Now you are in the groove, the difficulties ease a bit, as you stem up the groove towards the capping overhang.

Make some more hard move to pass the overlap, and sink you hand into the good crack above.

Polneys best hard route.

Location 

Climbs the overhanging groove in the toe of the buttress.

Protection 

Trad Gear.


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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Mammoth Lakes
Sep 8, 2007

A great route. I was able to get a small RP in a faint crack near the start, and a good #2 rock in the peg hole 2/3 of the way up.

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