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Hot Tin Slab 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1390', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter August 26 2002
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: USBRIT Ross on May 10, 2010

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Cooling off in a pool 600' up the crag . Full of s...

Description 

To experience the extreme summer heat of the desert and to see how it feels the climb was done in 105f in the shade.Outcome? It was very warm!.The climb is on the Great White Wall left of the Three Finger Canyon. From the Three Fingers Canyon cross the wash to the south and walk for about 15 mins until below a jumble of large spiked blocks. The route Dreamy Clouds climbs the dark slabs to the right of this route.

P1)The FA party did a 100' 5.7.(unprotected)through these blocks and grooves,but this pitch can be avoided by scrambling up left to the top of the red talus and traversing at 5.0 to the start of pitch 2.
P2). Climb right from the long ledge to the 25' PILLAR that is climbed on its right side via a good crack to bolt anchors at its top 80'5.8.
P3) Go up the slab to the right #1 Friend placement then left to a long narrow ledge. Follow the ledge to a line of flakes leading to a bolt then 15' to a foothold ledge and bolt belay. 160 5.8R.
P4).Gain the top of the ramp on the right to a bolt then up left to the long central ledge ,(part of the Mile and a Bit traverse of the Great White Wall)To Bolt anchors.150'5.8. From here scramble along the ledge to the south for about 600'(you will see why when you get there)to where a 4' high block lies up against the upper wall.
P5). Climb straight up from the block then angle right up a ramp and continue up the slab to a tree and bolt rap anchor.200' 5.6R.
P6)4th class from here for about 700' to a fine summit.

Descend the Route.

Location 

Hike south from Three finger canyon and see description and location of Dreamy Clouds

Protection 

Friends. #1,#1.5,#2.5, #3. Slings Two 60m ropes.


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