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Hot Licks  

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Peterman, Low, Olsen '93
Page Views: 670
Submitted By: Scott Coldiron on Jul 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

This is a mixed route with a thin crux high up. It's delicate face climbing. The crux is pulling over a small roof onto a thin face. It's runout a bit through the crux, but the fall is safe.

Location 

The second bolted climb in on the far left of the main wall. It's right next to the house-sized boulder.

Protection 

2 bolts and a couple pieces of small gear.


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By Rock Sterling
Jul 14, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The crux below the horizontal is more like V3, the finish just above the horizontal is like 11A, so I give the route easily 11D. Not sure if something broke off since the old days or not, but I did this when visiting last year and did it again this week. This assumes you don't scum off to the right but stay on the bolt line, which I did at the start too. Short but good I think

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