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Hot Karl Sunday 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Howe
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 5,246
Submitted By: Zeb Kenyon on Mar 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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Topped out on Hot Karl Sunday

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


To the right of Crack 1 is a line of bolts up a slab. The line pulls a bulge and leads up to a right facing corner. The bolts become much more frequent as things thin out.


Slab right of Crack 1.


9 bolts to rap rings.

Photos of Hot Karl Sunday Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hot Karl Sunday
Hot Karl Sunday
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux - difficult to see from the angle
The crux - difficult to see from the angle
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice view from the top!
A nice view from the top!
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve TR'ing at the first and, if you're tall enou...
Steve TR'ing at the first and, if you're tall enou...
Rock Climbing Photo: brooke working through the crux
brooke working through the crux

Comments on Hot Karl Sunday Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 7, 2017
By Zeb Kenyon
From: Holladay, UT
Mar 26, 2007

I identified this route after I had climbed it by matching the description on where it is rated 5.11a. I felt 5.10c was more on par with the slab climbing in LCC.
By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
May 2, 2007

I agree with the previous comment about a .10c rating. Feels kind of soft for .11a. Very safe lead w/ the crux up high on the route.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

9 bolts + anchor, not 8... Great slab, lots of balancy moves on tiny nothings, protects very well.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Best route on this side of the Ice Cream Parlor. Good length and very consistent climbing the whole way.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Mar 27, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a really fun climb. If you like cool, balancey, well protected moves do this climb! I agree that this is 10c.
By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This would barely squeak by at 5.9 in Safe Harbor, PA
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

HA HA you're funny Tyrel! Barely 5.9 eh... 5.10 in my book and pretty much any where in this country me thinks. Sure you were on the right route man? There are a couple of 5.9 slabs there as well. Bet those were what you were on..?
By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Jun 7, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

No, I am serious, I am certain I was on the right route. I have never onsighted a slab route harder that 5.10b and that was a terribly desperate affair. Every move on this route was secure but the climbing was sustained at 5.9 for the last few bolts. I did think it was a great climb, and I appreciated the close proximity of protection bolts on it, but it was definitely not 5.10.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 7, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Hmmm... Well grades are subjective and relative. Though it's interesting that in 17 people who have suggested a grade for this route, you are the only one who thinks it's even close to 5.9, yet all the rest of us gave it at least 5.10 or higher.

Tyrel, you must be the slab dancing master then. Good job!! I've got a couple of EASY slabs in LCC you should come try and then downgrade them for us... They maybe rated hard, but I'm sure you'll find them to be much much easier.
By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Jun 8, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I appreciate the invitation but I will probably pass on it. There are more than enough slab routes in PA, and if I make the drive/flight to Utah I will be more interested in cracks.

Besides, I am really not a sandbagger, I just have really nice slab climbing shoes ;)
By Nick Zmyewski
From: Newark, Delaware
Apr 6, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I've climbed at Safe Harbor and Hot Karl Sunday is definitely harder than any 5.9 I've climbed there. Btw, I had a great laugh when I saw Safe Harbor pop up in the Moab section.
By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
May 11, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Is this really still going on?! I am not referring to the current grades that people are considering most slabs at safe harbor. Talk to a REAL safe harbor local, that has been climbing there for 20+ years. Since safe harbor has opened in the last two years, I have seen many of the moderate routes jump up in grade as much as two numbers there. This whole discussion is stupid. Hot Karl Sunday us PISS easy for 10a, much less 10c. Be honest, its 5.9.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Tyrel: it would be 11c in Maple and probably 5.7 in JTree or Yosemite. Also, keep in mind that nobody gives two fucks about your glory years climbing in PA... I'm glad you feel like downgrading makes your dick seem bigger but if all you're doing with it is stick up your own ass you're not gaining much. Keep being a tool bro!
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
May 12, 2013

Haha, burn. Downgrading ICP... Your so hard, bro.
By H..
From: Washingtonville NY
Jun 27, 2013

I did this climb last year, and though my memory is a little fuzzy, I did toproped it clean, at a time where there was no way I could toprope any 5.10s, so I have to agree with Tyler on the 5.9. I agree with boissal that different places have different takes on grades, but id say, if anything, inflating grades is compensation for pride, not the other way around.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Beside the fact that there's not much pride to be drawn from sending a 9 and calling it a 10c (your bros are bound to find out and ridicule you next time you're spraying at the gym), I just noticed someone has this at 5.11.
I wonder if he'd burst into flames if he approached a slab in PA or got within a 100' of Tyrel?
By ljh
Oct 3, 2013

Hilarious debate.
I gave it the 11a rating on first free ascent--so guess I'm the soft one!
But FAs are always different from subsequent ascents all who do them know. And it's on ss so could be 5.6 or 5.13 by tomorrow.
Never knew what the route actually got named in the end—not a fan.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Nov 4, 2013

Did this one this past spring! So much fun and a must do!
By michael s...
From: Denver, CO
May 15, 2015

The comments in this thread are hilarious. Fun climb that is certainly well-bolted at the top.
By Sam Feuerborn
Oct 7, 2015

Anchors could use some lovin' if anyone is motivated...
By Rob Dillon
May 7, 2017

ljh aren't you from PA or someplace? You could put this conversations to bed.

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