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Hot Head 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Esmond
Page Views: 1,368
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Aug 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Not my favorite route here. The slab climbing is good, the top out is good, but oh the crux sucks. It's not particularly hard, just very crunched up and awkward, at least for me and everyone else that I've seen, maybe you'll have a more enjoyable experience.

Climb up the bolt line to the left of Black Slabbath and to the right of the huge Dyke leading up to Giant Man. At the top of the slab you can clip the anchors and then lower off having ticked a great 5.9, or put an extended draw on the anchor and pull over the lip into the crunched up cave. Awkwardly make your way to the right. If you can think of it use an extended draw or two here as well as the rope drag gets pretty heavy beyond this point. After working out to a comfortable rest on the right, climb the cool ramp on the right to the crack in the face on the left. Hopefully you got the route clean so you won't have to do the crux again. I recommend lowering off to the first anchor and re-routing the rope if you plan to clean your gear on reppel or as you are lowered as the wear on the rope can be heavy and cleaning can be tough from the top anchors.

Also, be aware of other climber in the area, particularly on Black Slabbath as you will be climbing above them and potentially lowering off onto them.


Starts to the right of Giant man and climbs up the slab (5.9) with an optional lower off, or continues to the right of the Giant Man Roof.


14 bolts to lower offs

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 18, 2007

Could have been named "the giant killer". Not bad if you are small. The slab is very nice and recommended. The mid section is not bad if you don't charge right into it and get your self balled up. Think your moves through and use slings to avoid rope drag. Certainly do the top for your tick, but for later repeats where you don't want to get so involved, maybe stop at the first anchor.
By Ian Wolfe
From: Fayetteville, NC
Sep 9, 2009

The bolts right above the roof move can be easy to miss/skip. I blew right by them and ended up reaching backwards to clip the second one. This worked fine for me, but left my second with a big swing falling off the crux. If someone is TR'ing the route after you, make sure you get that clip!!!
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Apr 17, 2010

Some funky climbing, especially if you are tall. Also, if you don't use any extended draws, the rope drag is NASTY at the end. Definitely some cool moves in there though.
By Mike Robinson
From: Worcester, MA
May 5, 2012

very good route well worth doing. I'd agree with Marks comment about the top.
By S. Neoh
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I am rather small in size so this route was only a little awkward. The 5.9 slab is very good. I actually liked the route enough to give it 2.5 stars. Another great route by Ed.

My partner and I led this climb to the top in one go from the ground. With care, rope drag is reasonable but adds to the difficulty of the climb. I, however, cleaned the route on the way down in two; from the top anchors to the intermediate, pull the rope, then from the intermediate anchors to the ground.
By crimsonraen
Jun 6, 2013

This climb should be done as a multi-pitch climb. If not, cleaning is absolutely awful, since after the anchors, you climb straight up, straight right, then up and right. That aside, this is a totally fun route! It has a lot of weird moves. (Although awkward, I didn't find the ceiling hard at all.. You can just muscle through it) Getting the anchor was a bit scary the first time around, though a breeze the second time once I got the sequence.

Again, do this climb as a multi-pitch!
By Ladd
Oct 3, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

So Awkward.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 18, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Out of all the 5.10's at Rumney, the Hothead crux gets my vote for the hardest, most hideous, and most heinous. Really ugly. I hate it.

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