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Hot Fudge 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,806
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Start in the right-facing corner under the roof, traverse under the roof using the finger crack, pull around the corner (crux), and continue up the good crack to a small bulge. Then head up the ramp and up to the top--look for the bolts. This is a nice crack climb.


A few large stoppers, cams to 1" and a #3 or 4 Friend to double bolts.

Photos of Hot Fudge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hot Fudge offers one of the funnest trad leads at ...
BETA PHOTO: Hot Fudge offers one of the funnest trad leads at ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Deb works out the traverse.
Deb works out the traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: Around the tough stuff.  Beta: fight the urge and ...
Around the tough stuff. Beta: fight the urge and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: John traverses the underclings.
John traverses the underclings.

Comments on Hot Fudge Add Comment
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By Sean O'Dell
Jun 3, 2002

When done as a TR, most people start this route by skipping the intitial traverse under the roof. This start begins just left of the 5 foot boulder under "Fudge Face", on the face directly under the crack system in the picture above. Do a short series of reachy, crimpy face moves to obtain the crack where it goes vertical. This start goes at the mid 5.10 range (in my opinion, anyway) and becomes the new crux of the route. Not advisable on lead, since there are no options for pro until you hit the crack, but definitely makes for a fun bouldery start to an already great route when set up on TR.
By Ken McVicker
Aug 14, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My friend aided this route (just to practice aiding). You can reach the undercling from the ground on the left side of the undercling. As a lead route, I think it is fine, but you have to start from the left and do the traverse. Plenty of geat placement for cams (mid to small size). I climbed it on top tope from the left side of the undercling. It was a little scary at first knowing that you'd deck and hit a few boulders if you came off for the first 10 feet of the undercling or so. The rock is pretty solid, and there are two cracks in the undercling to choose from for hand and gear placement. Once at the top you don't have to do the ramp. Continue up the crack to a large ledge about 5 feet from the top of the canyon and you can reach up and clip the 3-bolt anchor on the top. The anchor is two 1/4 in bolts and one new 1/2 inch bolt. Lower or rappel from there or mantle to the top.

Good solid rock.

Possible replacement on of the 1/4" bolts with a 3/8" or 1/2".
By Steve Knapp
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Mar 21, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was a fun route on toprope. The undercling below the roof is nice, though I slipped once but did not hit the deck (big pendulum swing). A bit tougher where the crack goes vertical, this was the crux for me. It wasn't stylish, but I made it up.
By Marc Stuive
From: Parker, Co
Jun 21, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Great underhand cling. Great holds in the crack, proper foot placement is handy, if not essetial. Use your shoulders once the crack turns vertical to wedge against the rocks.
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Sep 19, 2011


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