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Hot Beach 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Richard Aschert, Darryl Roth and Dave Dangle, 1987
Page Views: 5,180
Submitted By: Joe Collins on May 1, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (2). Errata: Route 31 is Tits...


AKA "Hot Bitch on a Beach" for the non-PC, this is an excellent route and undoubtedly a Shelf classic! The guidebook grade above is fairly consistent with other routes graded in the Cactus Cliff Decimal System. However, word has it that it's a good bit easier than the neighboring "Tits Up", also graded 12b. (Note that these two climbs are reversed in the beta photo.)

Start right of Tits Up and left of Wadsworth Boulevard, at the right side of the wall. Climb a short arete to a small roof and continue up the slightly overhanging wall to the anchors. The route is characterized by sustained climbing that doesn't let up until the anchors. There really didn't seem to be a distinct crux... more like 5-6 11/11+ cruxes, separated by decent stances where you can get a good shake.


11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 6, 2017
By richard magill
Nov 17, 2003

Great line; awesome pockets and continuity. This route is definitely 3 stars, as is its neighbor to the left, "Tits Up". There has always been a great deal of confusion about which route name goes with which line.I think Joe Collins has it right here.

Amongst climbers I know, there is plenty of agreement that Tits Up and Hot Beach are both classic sport routes, and that the left route is about a letter grade harder than the right route.

Catches sun all day - you could hardly pick a better route to do for the chilly part of the season.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 24, 2005

This thing is long and super continuous - definitely no defining move just lots and lots of crimping and pockets with just about no move easier than .11a for most of the 90 feet or so.
By Tom C
Jan 18, 2006

This is listed as 11d/12a in the new Knapp, Thompson, and Aschert guide.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2012

This route is awesome! Very continuous climbing with some tricky moves interrupted by pockets and jugs. Pretty cool route. Endurance is the name of the game on this one. I would agree with other posts, regardless of what grade this is, it's definitely one letter grade harder than its neighbor to the left. I have done them both on several occasions. Super good, and if you want to train endurance, do some laps on this thing! There are some sneaky rests on the route including one out right near the top which can save you some much needed juice for the finishing sequence....
By slim
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

One of the all time classic 12a's at Shelf, and for good reason. No brutal show stopper moves on it but a lot of climbing at a fairly difficult grade. Top that off with a heartbreaking redpoint crux at the top, and you get one hell of a route.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jan 20, 2014

Yeah, super sustained. Definitely stacked 11+ moves with alright rests. A must do - super fun and classic.
By Mark Rolofson
Nov 25, 2014

It has been 23 years since I redpointed this route. I do remember getting back on it in the early 2000s. It is a great climb but not as hard or pumpy as "Tits Up". If it's .12b, then "Tits Up is .12c. "Hot Beach" has a great rest below 4th bolt.
By Julia
Jan 26, 2016

This is an an amazing climb. For how long it's been around, it is in fantastic shape. A must do at Shelf!
By Nate Liles
Jan 30, 2016

Replaced remaining original wedge bolts (4) in 2015, hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation today @
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse, WI
Apr 5, 2017

My buddy picked this out as his project for the day and accidently got on it as his very first climb thinking it was a 5.10a. Be careful, because the guidebook is wrong on this thing.
By Adam Block
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 6, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This certainly has an opening crux and a heartbreaker sequence up top, but the middle section can be negotiated with large rests out right, slightly around the arete. While still 12a, using these makes it a typical 12a grade and neglecting these may give rise to the old 12a/b debate. Either way, great climb!

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