||Ice, 4 pitches, 900', Grade IV
|Original: ||WI5 PG13 [details]|
|Page Views: ||1,866|
|Submitted By: ||IanA on Dec 4, 2009|
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Northern most climb on Peak 13,419. Climbers left of Stairway to Heaven
. Route follows two parallel gullies, the right one is slightly more difficult than the left. Left gully's crux is a thin pillar midway up the route while the right gully's crux comes higher up near the top. Climb normally consists of four steep sections of ice with minimal slogging in between. Early season if ice has not fully fill in, you could experience a small section of mixed.
Descend by walking off to the left. Good route finding is advised or rap the route on v-threads.
This is to the left of Stairway to Heaven
Two options exist:
Option 1: Approach the same as Stairway Heaven
but head up and left crossing on a snow slope with a small grove of aspens. Drop in to gully directly below climb and wallow up to the obvious start of the ice. Long but not as steep as option 2.
Option 2: Walk up road till you are directly below climb. Cross river on the avalanche debris pile and wallow up the gully to the base of the climb. Recommended (check avy conditions before you do this)
Screws (a variety of sizes), some rock pro might be handy.
Approaching the pillar (photo by Dan Hughes).
BETA PHOTO: Hoser Highway not showing the approach.
By C. Trimble
Nov 23, 2010
Not sure why you would want to approach from STH. Just solo up the approach ice in the obvious gully. We installed a new rock anchor at the top of the last pitch (off right, black webbing). Straighforward descent with v-threads & downclimbing. This is an amazing climb, it should be climbed more. Good when every other route has a line....