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Horsethief Butte

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I dynno if I should try this.  
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Horsethief Butte Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 45.6483, -121.0973 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,017
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Apr 20, 2006
Forecast:
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From the approach, note the tall buttress near the...

Description 

A fun Columbia Gorge destination with a nice variety of top rope climbs and boulder problems. This picturesque area on the Washington side of the river sits atop the basalt columns of Horsethief Butte; a trail circumnavigates the butte and a handful of trails snake through the corridors that hold most of the exposed rock.

The basalt here is generally of good quality and has some fun features, but be wary of loose blocks. The tops of many of the boulder problems have some loose chunks on them, and there are undoubtedly plenty of ticking time bombs on top of the top rope areas.

No bolts are allowed here so be sure to bring a trad rack and plenty of long slings if you're going to be setting up topropes. There are probably a couple hundred toprope climbs so pick out a line that looks good and go for it.

Getting There 

Take I-84 East from Portland to The Dalles. Cross over the bridge to Washington and take a right on Hwy. 14 after a mile or so. Go a few miles (past the state park with Horsethief Lake) and park at the pullout for the Horsethief Butte Trail. The bulk of the bouldering is on top of the butte along with much of the toproping.

Climbing Season

For the Southeast Cascades & Yakima area.

Weather station 2.4 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Horsethief Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Horsethief Butte:
I dynno if I should try this.    V1 5     Boulder, 15'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Horsethief Butte

Featured Route For Horsethief Butte
Rock Climbing Photo: short but sweet.

I dynno if I should try this. V1 5  Washington : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Horsethief Butte
Tiny foot chip start crank hard off and dyno to the jug above it.I am 6'0'' with +1.5 span and I can just almost deadpoint the move.Very fun move and easy top out once you have made the dyno...especially for it being on a slab wall....[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Photos of Horsethief Butte Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Easy crack problem. Pretty easy stuff, but fun all...
Easy crack problem. Pretty easy stuff, but fun all...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking north from Entrance Cracks on a warm winte...
Looking north from Entrance Cracks on a warm winte...
Rock Climbing Photo: Warming up on a nice VB
Warming up on a nice VB
Rock Climbing Photo: The trailhead sign, looking Southwest.  Mt. Hood i...
BETA PHOTO: The trailhead sign, looking Southwest. Mt. Hood i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Right of the entrance cracks, lots of crack option...
Right of the entrance cracks, lots of crack option...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking out from the bouldering area.
Looking out from the bouldering area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sit start. Follow the crack straight up. Don't use...
Sit start. Follow the crack straight up. Don't use...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another shot of easy wall. There is another cool p...
Another shot of easy wall. There is another cool p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kate on a fun V1.  The block below the triangular ...
Kate on a fun V1. The block below the triangular ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Daniel on a bouldery crack.
Daniel on a bouldery crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: There are 3 problems on this short boulder. One in...
There are 3 problems on this short boulder. One in...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sit start. Short, but sweet. Mantle is the crux. M...
Sit start. Short, but sweet. Mantle is the crux. M...
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.9+ .. 5.10-'ish - not bad for a 10year old p...
5.9+ .. 5.10-'ish - not bad for a 10year old p...
Rock Climbing Photo: fun trad routes
fun trad routes

Comments on Horsethief Butte Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Feb 12, 2017
There are only a few short sections with worthwhile roped climbs. A crash pad would be far more useful if you're not set on doing longer routes. Olson's NW Oregon book mostly lists boulder problems, but does include the Entrance Cracks and a few at the Long Wall. These are pretty great, though maybe not worth the trip by themselves because of how short they are. These two walls are mostly north-facing but do get nice afternoon sun. Great place to bring beginners and/or get on some sunny rock this time of year. Be aware that a Discovery Pass ($30/annual) is required, otherwise it's a $10/day fee.
By John Brown
Feb 28, 2017
Great place if its ever raining in Portland to get some outdoor in the gorge. Worth the trip and a great hike for your friends that don't climb. Scramble/explore mania for the little's and great place to practice trad. Had a great time. Bring a wind breaker! possibly ear plugs if your ears are sensitive to wind & a blanket if you are just "chilling" watching. Killer views of the gorge and right off hwy 14 getting your rocks off!

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