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Horseshoes 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Moise-Murzic
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 317
Submitted By: Monte Swann on Apr 4, 2014

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  • Description 

    A good route for rookie trad leaders. Route begins up right facing dihedral/crack through mixed face and over a roof. Widely varied climbing in a short distance.

    Location 

    Route is found on separate wall up the approach trail to the right of other Toe climbs. Wall features mixture of slick white and super friction red rock.

    Protection 

    Crack takes a few small to medium cams just about wherever you want to put them. The rest is bolts with an optional cam at roof. Chains at top anchor.


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    By Dan Evans
    From: N Scottsdale, AZ
    Dec 12, 2015
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Gear: Singles of .2 - 2 with a set of small stoppers. Bring doubles of .3-.5 if you want to sew it up.

    Really fun mellow route on solid rock that took great gear in solid placements. Felt a bit soft for 5.7. Might of been a move or two but no definite crux. Pulling the roof and everything past it is pretty mellow face climbing on postive finger holds. Recommend for a first trad lead for anyone solid at 5.7.

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