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Horsecock Rock

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Penile Decay T 

Horsecock Rock Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.31343, -122.33725 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 544
Administrators: Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve Elder on Jan 25, 2016
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Description 

A freestanding pinnacle largely hidden by forest. Somewhat variable rock quality like most Oregon basalt spires.

Getting There 

From Sweet Home, drive 16 miles east on Hwy 26 to Canyon Creek Road FS2022. Turn right and follow 2022 for about 9 miles. Canyon Creek will be on your right for about 8 miles, then you will cross it and it'll be on your left. You can just see the top of Horsecock Rock from one place only along here. There is a vague pullout area on the left that may still have some lime green ribbon on a tree. Park here and walk up the road about 100 yards and you should be able to see an old vague and overgrown forest road heading off to the right, slightly uphill and heading back north. Follow the flags if they remain in place until you almost reach an old slash pile. Head straight up the hill following a vague trail that was fully trimmed out in 2013. There are some ropes in place to help up the really steep sections.
Coordinates for the spire are: 44.313436-122.337265

Climbing Season

For the Willamette Valley area.

Weather station 9.9 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Horsecock Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of original aid line. Courtesy of Tyler Adams

Penile Decay 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  OR : Willamette Valley : Horsecock Rock
This is the free version of the old aid route, Soft Space.Pitch 1 (5.8): From the uphill saddle climb up obvious wide crack system using some bolts and larger sized cams for protection. The crux is located just below the belay ledge. Mind some loose blocks on the pitch. 80'Pitch 2 (5.11d): Launch up the overhanging head wall, on good holds but with big reaches, to a rest at the arete. Continue up and right through several crux sections with more big reaches and some smaller holds. Follow the bol...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

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