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Horse Gulch Open Space

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Horse Gulch  
Valalpin's Escarpment, North 
Valalpin's Escarpment, South 

Horse Gulch Open Space Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,679'
Location: 37.2633, -107.8706 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,809
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Oct 26, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
These are nice, short leads.


Two small cliffs on either side of the entrance of Horse Gulch have friable rock, which once cleaned, yield enjoyable and dynamic climbing. The 40 foot cliff on the right has two leads with two more further up-creek. While there's a lot of fun TRs on the left cliff and high-ball boulder problems up blasted rock further down, the testpiece is an aid line from the graffiti up & out roofs to a ledge & dihedral to top out.

Getting There 

There is a 10 minute approach from the parking lot to the climbs for either the left or right side of the gulch.

For the right side: go right across the parking lot to the trail up the hill. Where it levels out, go left and up to a rock shelf to gain the larger trail. Follow this to the first utility pole, then go left through the trees and drop down to the base of the cliff.

For the left side: follow left ridgeline trail to shelves of rock, and traverse hillside to base of climbs.

Climbing Season

For the Durango area.

Weather station 1.5 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Horse Gulch Open Space
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up route.

Petra's Wild Ride 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Colorado : Durango : ... : Horse Gulch
Shallow corner leads to a flake and ledge. Go right and over a roof to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Horse Gulch Open Space Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lots of potential....
Lots of potential....
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun TRs dotted....
Fun TRs dotted....
Rock Climbing Photo: Quarried stone, wild bouldering/free solo.
Quarried stone, wild bouldering/free solo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice Diagonal.
Nice Diagonal.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice traverse here, start left out of view.
Nice traverse here, start left out of view.
Rock Climbing Photo: Oh yeah.
Oh yeah.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hmmm....
Rock Climbing Photo: Hard.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun Little Quarry Problem.
Fun Little Quarry Problem.
Rock Climbing Photo: Oh my....
Oh my....
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep starts....
Steep starts....
Rock Climbing Photo: 50 feet of fun....
50 feet of fun....
Rock Climbing Photo: The top....
The top....
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice line.
Nice line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Featured.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scenic.
Rock Climbing Photo: More....
Rock Climbing Photo: Well....
Rock Climbing Photo: O.K.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ahh.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crazy position climbing out flare / crack roof.
Crazy position climbing out flare / crack roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty and brown.
Pretty and brown.
Rock Climbing Photo: Graffiti / start to Nice Line.
Graffiti / start to Nice Line.

Show All 39 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Horse Gulch Open Space Add Comment
Show which comments
By m-earle
From: USA
Dec 11, 2007
A hundred feet or so up the trail, at the sharp left turn, there is a roof-crack boulder problem on the left. It may be complete junk, as I have never tried it (muddy/shale landing), but it looked kinda fun....
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Jun 7, 2010
Not recommended unless you enjoy short ledgy choss. Much better for mountain biking or hobo camping.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Shiprock, Navajolands
Jun 30, 2010
Short with choss, but someone else please lead Sabine's Magical Mystery Tour and tell me this is a "ledgy" route.
By Jaaron Mankins
From: Durango, CO
Sep 12, 2010
I totally agree with the chosspector here, Horse Gulch used to be renowned for keggers and 4-wheelin' back in the early '90s-before the gates went up.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Shiprock, Navajolands
Sep 15, 2010
O.K.-- It's true, I do have a thing for choss, short or long, ledgy or overhung, it doesn't matter where, I'll try it.... As far as what this place is best for -- qué será, será!
By Jaaron Mankins
From: Durango, CO
Sep 21, 2010
I respect a man with a healthy choss affinity.
By smassey
From: CO
Dec 10, 2010
Matthias, I'd rather be climbing the choss you put up than doing the umpteenth lap on socially acceptable choss at The Golf Wall. Funny how choss is a matter of perspective. The guidebook to Rifle starts out with saying "Rifle is truly a pile", or something to that effect. To all the haters: If you don't like choss, leave the San Juans - you're out of your element; go sport climbing somewhere. If you don't mind a little adventure, enjoy it for what it is.

BTW, thanks for posting all the pix of you and Joel getting after it. It's a slice of Dgo history.

If someone posts pix of anyone riding down the horse gulch cliffs, I will be impressed....

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