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Horrors of Ivan 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Peter Croft, Hamish Fraser
Page Views: 842
Submitted By: mattyama on Jun 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Climbing past bolts into gear


Climb past two bolts to a small cave in the middle of the wall. Move up right into a crack to finish.


2 bolts, standard rack.

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By Ol Toby
From: CA
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Bring a few smaller to medium nuts and/or an orange metolius/grey alien to protect the finish. Very enjoyable route with a pumpy sequence out of the "cave."
By James Ellis
From: Seattle, Washington
May 30, 2017

Decent, but I'm not sure about it's "top 100" status in the select guide. I found the gear to be a bit finicky, the "right angling crack" is actually more of a jug rail with some openings for gear in the back. There are plenty of opportunities for good gear but they are fairly specific.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 5, 2017

Great climb. I'd say be really solid at the grade, as pro is finicky and hard to get. I'd say a single rack to a green camalot and double up on small to green or yellow alien. I didn't use any stoppers, as the pump was a bit much for me, but if 5.11 is in your comfort zone, there are a few options for small to medium stuff.

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