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Hornet's Rest 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ted Wilson, Bob & Wilf Bruschke
Page Views: 1,577
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 16, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Dihedrals area

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This climb starts from the anchors of Half-a-Finger. First do Half-a-Finger, or I think maybe this ledge is reachable from the top of the Five Fingers buttress (?).

The pitch climbs a short hand crack in a right facing dihedral to a huge ledge. Then a few delicate moves up a very thin finger crack/seam in a dihedral lead to a roof. Hand traverse right along the roof and then up a groove/crack to the anchors atop Satan's Corner.

One 60m rope can rap here down to a ledge at the start of Lisa's Shoulder.


Single set of cams from red alien up to #3 camalot. Stoppers. Chain anchors shared with Satan's Corner.

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By Peter Gram
From: Cupertino, CA
Jun 17, 2005

Hornet's Rest is the crack system above all the other dihedral routes in the beta photo. It climbs up the right facing dihedral seen in the picture, then traverses the roof (shaded) rightward.
By Double D SLC
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Why not climb 2 great pitches instead of one?
By zoso
Jun 5, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought this route was fantastic. Very clean, not "ricey" as reported. Crux after crux after crux with great stances for gear. We had a #4 camalot that was key for the traverse. A #5 would have been a little easier to deal with, but is not esential. And yes, you can get to it w/out climbing half-a-finger, but why?
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 6, 2010

Rock quality is good, and the climbing is varied and consistent at the grade. Great route that had me grinning for a while after! There is only one place that will take your #4, so dig deep...
By Mark D Evans
From: Sandy, UT
Mar 31, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pretty cool little route! I didn't have a #4 and don't feel I needed one. A #2.5 friend(#2 camalot) protected the start and a #3 camalot protected the end. Either way, this is a worthy route for sure.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 22, 2011

Make sure to bring some micros and a purple tcu as the gear placements are small for the first 20 feet after the hand crack. The roof looks hard as it is quite wide, but some shuffle underclinging will get you past it without too much stress. I did place a #4 camalot but not absolutely necessary. Another good moderate route at the dihedrals.
By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
Mar 15, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I would definitely recommend this route! Fun climbing on good rock. Hopefully this will get more traffic with the new guidebook.

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