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Hornets Nest

Select Route:
Anaphylactic Shock S 
Beetle Juice S 
Butterfly S 
Hornet's Chimney T 
Lonesome Cowboy T,TR 
Mothra S 
Mr. Critical S 
Mr. Critical Variation S 
Pollinator, The S 
Second Hand Rose Arete S 
Swarm S 
Vespidae S 
W.A.S.P. (center variation start) T,S 

Hornets Nest Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 14,179
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 16, 2002

67° | 51°

72° | 45°

61° | 40°

50° | 37°

45° | 35°

49° | 36°
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CE nearing the top of Mr. Critical on sight, a ste...

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This rock and Shipyard Rock are the two large formations in the South Seas area. Hornets' Nest has many fine routes on it, many of which are very difficult. The average rating is probably around 5.11, but routes vary from 5.4 to 5.13 on its various faces. Mr. Critical, Second Hand Rose, and WASP are all very fun routes. Hornets' Nest is made up mostly of routes requiring only quickdraws, but a few routes require gear as well. To descend, pick one of many fixed anchor rappels, and bring two ropes.

Getting There 

Walk into the South Seas sign-in area. There are two large formations straight ahead. Shipyard Rock is the one on the right, and Hornets' Nest is on the left. Many routes start on this face, but for others, follow the trail around its base.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.9 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hornets Nest

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hornets Nest:
Second Hand Rose Arete   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 155'   
W.A.S.P. (center variation start)   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   
Hornet's Chimney   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
The Pollinator   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Anaphylactic Shock   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Mr. Critical   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
Beetle Juice   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Swarm   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Lonesome Cowboy   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, TR, 100'   
Butterfly   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hornets Nest

Featured Route For Hornets Nest
Rock Climbing Photo: Robbie Freidel High on Lonesome Cowboy

Lonesome Cowboy 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  South Dakota : The Needles Of Rushmore : ... : Hornets Nest
Critical Cowboy and Lonesome Cowboy are on the Honeycomb Wall, I believe. At the South Seas sign-in, take the left trail and walk about fifty meters. Both of these routes are on your right, to the right of Mr. Critical. Critical Cowboy joins up with Mr. Critical for a few bolts, if you want to take this line.However, with a cam, you can bring the crack into the Lonesome Cowboy route, if that isn't the intended line. Lonesome Cowboy, is a very cool route, but can be a little confusing as to w...[more]   Browse More Classics in South Dakota

Photos of Hornets Nest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Travis nearing the top of Mr. Critical and Aaron o...
Travis nearing the top of Mr. Critical and Aaron o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brady Evans rapping after the classic Second Hand ...
Brady Evans rapping after the classic Second Hand ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Charles and I hanging out on the summit of Hornet'...
Charles and I hanging out on the summit of Hornet'...
Rock Climbing Photo: Travis on Mr. Critical and Aaron on Second Hand Ro...
Travis on Mr. Critical and Aaron on Second Hand Ro...

Comments on Hornets Nest Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 2, 2008
Its possible to rap from the summit anchor atop WASP/Pollinator to the ground in one rap with a single 70m cord, with some easy downclimbing. Aim for the chasm between Hornet's Nest & Shipyard Rock. Its pretty close, so tie knots in the rope ends.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
May 29, 2012
As far as I can tell, these are the routes left L-->R starting from the Northeast (approx) face:

1) Pollinator 10b/c (variation to WASP)
2) WASP 9

These three are located on the north facing panel:
3) Butterfly 12c/d
4) Mothra 13a
5) Beetlejuice 12a/b

North west face corridor
6) Swarm 12b
7) Anaphalytic Shock 11-

West face directly next to the trail:
8) Mr Critical 11
9) Critical Cowboy ?
10) Lonesome Cowboy 12+
11) Second Hand Rose Arete 6

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