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Hormones in Waiting 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Glenn Dunmire, Stew Sayah, April 1988
Page Views: 5,314
Submitted By: J. Hickok on Sep 20, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Bill Grasse playing around on rappel.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This tower looks so intriguing as you approach from down below coming up the Sand Flats Road. Adventure climbing! Drive up the road farther than seems necessary and park just before a section of the road that is bulldozer scraped slickrock. Stay high (east) on the approach or else you might find yourself hiking extra to find your way to the base of the tower.

The photo existing on this site shows the easy slab approach to the very base of the route on the North West side of the tower. It would be a good idea to protect the belay if you start right here.

My partner led off without feeling confident in much of the initial gear, but eventually got something decent in. After moving through the worse rock at the bottom, my partner placed a more trustworthy cam and continued to climb to a section of the tower that you can stick your arm through. No joke, you could grab a climber's arm on the route on the south side of the tower.

The top out is a bit awkward. Make some interesting moves under the roof of the "hammer-head" to clip a bolt on the lip. Commit yourself to the very do-able moves over the lip and on to the summit.

The day we topped out, the slings on top were quite old, but since this tower seems to be seeing more ascents in the new millennium, I'm sure the webbing you find will be quite worthy for rappel.

Sounds like a single 60m rappel is working for people.


One set of cams, stoppers, and long slings. Sounds like chain anchors on top now.

Photos of Hormones in Waiting Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Elvis' Hammer
BETA PHOTO: Elvis' Hammer
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping off the Hammer Yeeehaa
Rapping off the Hammer Yeeehaa
Rock Climbing Photo: thinking about it
thinking about it
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Kiessel turning the roof.
Ben Kiessel turning the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Grasse getting started on Hormones in Waiting...
Bill Grasse getting started on Hormones in Waiting...
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Post rap, such a rad climb.. this guys stoked
Post rap, such a rad climb.. this guys stoked
Rock Climbing Photo: ug! dragus maximus
ug! dragus maximus
Rock Climbing Photo: it's a rap
it's a rap
Rock Climbing Photo: cruxing closer up
cruxing closer up
Rock Climbing Photo: cruxing
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Grasse (summit) and Brad B. on Hormones in Wa...
Bill Grasse (summit) and Brad B. on Hormones in Wa...

Comments on Hormones in Waiting Add Comment
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By Henry Lester
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2004

Excellent fun! This route is 5.10 and protects well including the first move. The rock is soft especially near the bottom and is, therefore, scary and exciting; however, it is possible to have a good piece in front of one at all times. A standard desert rack - doubles on everything and one 4 Camalot - will provide good protection. Long slings especially near the top is a good idea to avoid rope drag. There is a pin and an old star drive bolt at the overhang. We added a rope to the anchors which consists of an old bolt, a drilled angle, and a thread. Henry Lester
By Bill Grasse
From: Carbondale, CO.
Feb 9, 2007

This is a great route! Though a little loose and heady down low, I felt the rating to be close enough. Maybe 10+/11a would be better? I fell at the last bolt but as soon as I found the holds the move was not too bad. All in all I found it easier than the hike, but that's another story.
By Brendan N
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 28, 2009

Does anyone know the exact height of the Hammer on its tallest side, straight to the ground?
By Luke Malatesta
From: Moab Utah
Jan 28, 2009

100'...think we rapped with 1 60m.....Desert Rock 3 says 100.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
May 10, 2010

I thought the lip move was harder than 5.10. Also, one should note that the moves and pro at the base require the use of large wedged in chockstones. Being entrada, they could shatter. Just sayin'. As per the rappel, the tower will fall over before the rap anchors need any sort of replacement.
By Kory Kowallis
Jul 24, 2012

Not being a great crack climber, I was a little nervous at the part where you can stick your arm through the tower. I wish that I brought my #5 Camalot. However, I made it and was amazed at the view from the top. The crack itself seemed like a 10 but the sport move up top felt more like 10d or 11a. I can't wait to do it again. Great route.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

we got good beta on parking at the bull dozed slick rock and hiking in high. the route was shady and cool. bondo took the sharpie. good pro the whole way. standard desert rack. he pulled off two bowling balls at those lower chock stones. LONG RUNNERS!!! MANDO!!! otherwise dragus maximus. A1 up top. following i took a couple quick hangs but pulled the moves. big holds out left, still 10D i think. bomber chains up top. thanks sam. single 70 got us down. yet another awesome fun mando route for the desert rat.
By swadeky
From: Moab, UT
May 15, 2013

so fun, the weirdness and the awesome moves at the top (tricky!) make it a classic weird tower. Don't follow Desert Rock 3's description of how to get there, it adds on about 45 minutes of driving for no reason. Go up sand flats for about 8 miles, youll see the obvious hammer on the right side and hike around the uphill side to get to it. Simple. UGH, classic crappy desert rock 3 description!

A very loose nut on the new anchor bolt on top, didnt have a nut tool to tighten properly.
By Anus Herder
From: Montrose, CO
Mar 28, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The crux of this climb was definitely trying to write in the summit log. Took twice as long as the climb. Pen for the summit journal is shit. Please new pen help. Sicki climb. Anyone know what the other climb on the backside is? Easy Approach, walked up a few washes, parked after the bulldozed slick rock before Yellow/black crossing signs.

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