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Horizontal Mambo 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Luke Malatesta et al, FFA: Mason Earle, November 2010
Page Views: 6,747
Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on Sep 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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getting to the crux. Photo cred: Michael Loh

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  • Description 

    Climb the low angle dihedral start of Bad Moki Roof but head right under the big roof along positive holds in the horizontal crack, clipping the fixed draws, rather then up the leftward thin hand crack of BMR. Most of the holds are good but feet are non-existent so some horizontal positioning is required to prevent campusing the route. Really fun. Crux comes right at the end.


    Same start as Bad Moki Roof. Look for the fixed draws heading horizontally below a big roof.


    A few small pieces in the .3 to .75 camalot range for Bad Moki start, one draw for first bolt, then fixed draws to finish.

    Photos of Horizontal Mambo Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Good look at the start of the bussiness
    Good look at the start of the bussiness
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mamboooooo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Plenty of pictures of me in between bolts.  No pic...
    Plenty of pictures of me in between bolts. No pic...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Right before I fell and quit the route.
    Right before I fell and quit the route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Following horizontal mambo
    Following horizontal mambo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Doing the mambo, the horizontal mambo...
    Doing the mambo, the horizontal mambo...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bad picture. Sorry. But it shows the fixed draws a...
    Bad picture. Sorry. But it shows the fixed draws a...

    Comments on Horizontal Mambo Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jeremy Steck
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Oct 10, 2011

    Great climb! I found that campusing some sections is far easier than spending the time to get your feet in the flake. Hard to make the clips. A few of the holds toward the end are somewhat friable.
    By D-Storm
    Oct 18, 2011
    rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

    I played on this route last spring and it is a lot of fun. It was also scary at the time. The first bolt was hanging a couple inches out of its straight-up placement in the roof; I pushed it back in and tightened it down with my fingers and continued cautiously, clipping two fixed draws. Between the third bolt (second fixed draw) and the "anchor" there was a hole that was apparently missing a bolt. I gave a couple half-hearted attempts at the crux before walking away — the missing bolt made it pretty scary to try very hard, because the swings were big and I came within 3 or 4 feet of grazing the slab below. I wondered if someone cleaned the fourth bolt and loosened the first to deter attempts without red-tagging the route, or just to add more excitement. In the photo, it looks like the missing bolt has been replaced?
    By m-earle
    From: USA
    Mar 24, 2012

    I believe I did the FFA on this one (nov 2010). The bolt twists out from people hanging on the route I would guess. Glue-ins would work well for this pitch. Press out the mantle at the end, or no send!!
    By Skylar Smith
    Jun 16, 2012

    Could someone please put in the first bolt of this!!!
    By Paul Robertson
    Oct 3, 2013

    The first ascent was done free. bolts came later
    By ben jammin
    From: Moab, UT
    Feb 21, 2014

    I agree with Mason, no mantle, no send. Although the mantle is not getting any easier as holds break at the end..
    By Clark Aegerter 1
    From: Orem, Utah
    Nov 9, 2015

    So i got on this climb this weekend and i am wondering where this climb ends, Mason you said you have to pull the mantel and then what do you do? is it the chains way out to the right on the slabs? I am looking for the answers so that i can count this one... some day. :-)
    By Evan Wisheropp
    Apr 3, 2016

    What a cool route! I would agree 5.12d through the roof, though the sandy and slopey mantle feels like it pushes the route to 13-. Perhaps it would be easier after the sand is blown off. The roof is really incredible though, I used a mix of campusing and heel/toe hooks.

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