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The Gill Boulder
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Horan Face 

Hueco: V5-6 Font: 6C+

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V5-6 Font: 6C+ [details]
FA: ? Horan ?
Season: year round
Page Views: 6,038
Submitted By: SAL on May 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Ian starting the horan face

Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>


Start on a small boulder and grab crimpy but good holds. Angle up and right.


This is on the West face of the Gill Boulder on the North end, just left of 606.


A couple pads to fix up the ankle breaking landing.

Photos of Horan Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeana working on the Horan Face.
Jeana working on the Horan Face.

Comments on Horan Face Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 23, 2014
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2008
rating: V4 6B

Isn't this called V4 in the Benningfield guide? Either way, excellent problem!
From: broomdigiddy
May 10, 2008

I think I was mistaken on this route, and it is actually the Baldwin Face judging from Bob Horan's Best of Boulder bouldering guide.
I posted this photo to help validate this info, so by all means please let me know if I'm out of whack here.
From: broomdigiddy
May 11, 2008

I will check out some stuff and other guides as well. I want to post some of the other routes on the gill as well so it would be nice to get it all straight.
From: broomdigiddy
May 12, 2008

I'll go with the first two folks I heard from and keep this route as is with the standard route. I feel it goes at stout V5 or so but oh well. It is a great problem regardless and at least now someone has a way of seeing it.
Thanks for the input Adam.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 12, 2008

I would take just about any grade in Phil's book with a big grain of salt. If you read his introduction, he states he will always take the lower of two grade options. By general consensus, a number of problems which are well-traveled Front Range classics have crept steadily up in grade since the book came out. The author's "keep 'em in their place" attitude combined with vague problem descriptions has long been a pet peeve of mine and if there is a new edition, I'm hoping there's a lot less attitude and a lot more specific useful information.

A good alternative approach is Chip Philips' online guide to Flagstaff at
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
May 12, 2008
rating: V5-6 6C+

As for this problem, Horan identified it as the Horan Face. While it is certainly possible Pat (Ament) or John (Gill) did this problem back in the day, Pat never mentioned it in ANY of his guides and considering that it used to have a pretty bad landing, my best guess is that they passed on it.

It is a pretty damn good problem and with the addition of Will's 606 to the Gill Boulder, it is as popular as ever.
From: broomdigiddy
May 12, 2008

Hey Chip.
That is what I had thought it was. Bob Horan's book is a little vague with the photo on this route and has 3 other lines with in feet of it to the left.
So, it was a bit confusing to read and try to post. I am going back Wed. this week and am going to snap a couple photos a bit more visible and see what happens.
The Gill Boulder is great, and I think we should have some accurate info on the higher end problems it carries.

By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
May 12, 2008
rating: V5-6 6C+

FWIW, the problem done by John Baldwin is about 10 ft right of 606.
From: broomdigiddy
May 13, 2008

Thanks Chip.
I am going with what my original thought was.
Thanks for the info.
By dan michels
From: boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2009

Feels like V6 for sure.
By tony herr
Apr 17, 2010

Why is the Baldwin Face (B.1+) eliminated? A significant problem. This problem is listed in Front Range Bouldering (1989), Author: Bob Horan. Pg. 160. Description: "Left of the Gill Face about fifteen feet is a thin-edged face that moves up and right. FA: John Baldwin, 1988." (Start at standard face, go up one move, then go right, two moves, then straight up, and finish at jug)
By Naomi Guy
Jan 21, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Isn't 'The Baldwin face' the original (stand up) start to '606'? Done before the boulders were dug out?
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
May 23, 2014

So for some perspective, if Zero G is V5 and Re-Entry Burn is consensus V6, then Horan Face is solid V6, at least in warm weather. Classic problem.

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