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North Buttress of Cathedral
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Beer Gut T 
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Hops'n'Barley T 
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Party of Two T 
Pedestal Center TR 
Small Arch Left Side TR 

Hops'n'Barley 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Philip Matena, Vlada Matena (2014)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 322
Submitted By: Vlada Matena on Sep 7, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Hops'n'Barley Pitch 2.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route starts in a crack at the upper end of a large left-facing dihedral 50 feet right of the toe of the buttress.

Pitch 1 (5.5) 170 ft. cams 1 ea 1-3". Two bolt anchor with rappel rings.

Pitch 2 (5.6 PG) 180 feet. Climb past 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rappel rings. This pitch is high quality 5.6 friction climbing. It may feel a little bit run out between the bolts to a 5.6 leader new to Tuolumne slab climbing. This pitch was originally rated at 5.7 but several climbers who repeated the route found an easier line between the bolts that is no harder than 5.6.

Location 

GPS N37.86251 W119.40011.

Protection 

Cams on pitch 1, bolts on pitch 2. All bolts including the belay anchors are 3/8" stainless steel.


Photos of Hops'n'Barley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 of Hops'n'Barley
Pitch 2 of Hops'n'Barley
Rock Climbing Photo: Vic Madrid on pitch 2.
Vic Madrid on pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing a bolt on the lead.
Placing a bolt on the lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the slab on Pitch 2 from the belay anch...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the slab on Pitch 2 from the belay anch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the belay anchor on pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the belay anchor on pitch 1.

Comments on Hops'n'Barley Add Comment
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By Ben Townsend
Jul 27, 2016

A beautiful climb, probably on the easier end of 5.7. The second pitch is safely bolted, but definitely thoughtful. It's possible to get a couple of small but solid pieces both before the first bolt and up higher.