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Hoppy's Favorite 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Dennis Oakeshott and Verne Clevenger, 1974
Page Views: 278
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Nov 25, 2014

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Named for the brand of milk you could buy at the Village store. The upper three pitches of this route are pretty fun. Unfortunately, the second pitch is 5.8 and unprotected. As Verne put it, 'to keep the riff raff off.' Luckily, there are a lot of other moderately protected routes on the Apron for those who don't like death leads.

Pitch 1(5.6) - climb a crack or 3rd class to the right to a ledge with a small tree and belay.

Pitch 2(5.8) - friction straight up, with no pro, to a two-bolt belay. Note - it is possible to bypass the first two pitches by climbing in from the Grack Left Side route.

Pitch 3(5.10a)- head straight up to a small ledge then traverse right past two bolts to a small left facing dihedral then climb up to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 4(5.10b) - climb up and slightly left past 4 bolts then traverse left(crux) past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 5(5.10a) - climb up past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Location 

This route starts 50-75 feet left of the left side of the Grack. Several double rope rappels get you down. Bring extra runners to beef up the anchors and cut out the worn tat.

Protection 

You might want to bring a selection of stoppers and small cams for the first two pitches(depending on which way you go).


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