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Hootenanny T 
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Hootenanny 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman,JSt,'09
Page Views: 678
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Mar 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Jesse Schultz half way up the climb.

Description 

Tricky start just above the belay with fun climbing to a great final crux roof move.

Location 

On the west face of the buttress it starts from a ledge about 30 ft. up.

Protection 

Bolts and a #2 and #3 camalot for the final crack.


Photos of Hootenanny Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse working through the first of numerous cruxes...
Jesse working through the first of numerous cruxes...
Rock Climbing Photo: Erica Bigio cranks through the lower crux.
Erica Bigio cranks through the lower crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: The line of Hootenenanny.
The line of Hootenenanny.
Rock Climbing Photo: EFR heading up to the final roof crux.
EFR heading up to the final roof crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Trevor Bowman on the FA.
Trevor Bowman on the FA.

Comments on Hootenanny Add Comment
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By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Mar 25, 2009

Just a couple of additions to Eric's description: There are 8 bolts on the line and both the bottom crux crimpy bit and the roof are bolt protected. A #1 and #2 (#3 is too big I think) camalot work well in the upper crack, which is 20' of great 5.8/9 hand and finger. Longer runners on some of the bolts are advisable, as the route weaves around a good bit, especially in the middle section. There are also clip-and-lower anchors, although cleaning while lowering can be a bit problematic. The route's about 100' long.

This is a cool varied climb, offering sequential crimping, funky balance climbing, a classic roof pull, and some fun easier crack. Many thanks to Jim Scott for graciously giving me first lead on my birthday! The name comes from the resident Great Horned owls which were hooting from a hidden roost nearby while we were working on the route.
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Dec 10, 2012

I tried this route in '09 and bailed midway up. Every time I went back to Milagrosa, I always noticed my bail QD was still there. I finally went back and got my draw back yesterday. It seems like this route deserves some more traffic than it gets.

The route can be done from the ground with a 70 m rope.

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