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The Traddy Wagon
Routes Sorted
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Hooligan T 
Paddy Cake S 
Ruffian T 

Hooligan 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman & Jim Scott 2/18/09
Page Views: 359
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Mar 25, 2009

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Jim sizing up the Hooligan.

Description 

Crank up pumpy sidepulls and edges on the clean lower face, scramble over the ledgy middle section, and jam out the burly roof crack on assorted handjams, fingerlocks, and edges. A great but devious route requiring a fine combination of power and body english.

Location 

The left-hand roof crack on the wall, with two bolts on the lower face.

Protection 

2 bolts, #.3-#2 camalots, couple medium stoppers, clip-and-lower anchors.


Photos of Hooligan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamming through the crux roof on the FA of Hooliga...
Jamming through the crux roof on the FA of Hooliga...

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 4, 2009

Tried hard to onsight this and failed. Got the beta and still could not pull it off. It is one of those problems that isn't straight forward and could take a while to work out. With the beta it is still hard but the move is cool and I really want to do it. Bomber gear makes it possible to work it pretty safely. My toes touched the lip of the ledge once. A longer fall from higher will probably put you past the ledge. Nice job Trevor.
By dcohn
Nov 22, 2009

Be careful of loose stuff on the ledges. I accidentally knocked off a 50+ pound block. Fortunately I missed the belayer by a long-shot.