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Hook and Ladder 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Mike Lechinski and Randy Vogel, 1981 w/o ladder, John Bachar 1981 (5.12b)
Page Views: 898
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Close up of the start. FYI, that ladder is bomber...


So lets say you spot an sweet finger crack which begs to be climbed. The only problem is the crack starts about 15 feet off the deck. Hmmm... If I only had a ladder. Turns out, in this case, Mike and Randy had a ladder, salvaged from the nearby stamping mill.

Climb the ladder, top step, and reach up for the incipient crack. The moves to get established in the crack proper are commiting, fairly hard, with high excitement potential. Your amusement in using the ladder turns to sick anticipation of a reaquiantance on the way down.

However, all is not in vain as perseverance allows one to enjoy sick fingerlocks as the feet struggle to find sustenance. The crack gently widens from fingers to thin hands to sinkers. At the top of the crack look down the maw of Poodle Boy. Make sure there are no cams to hook down below.

After you and your partner exchange high fives for completing a route shrouded with difficulty, obscurity, and genuine originality, go ahead and simulrap off, cause there ain't no convenience up here!


HB brass! Many thin to 2". Belay is #2 and #3 Camalot size.

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By Randy
Dec 23, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

If truth be known (he says sheepishly), the ladder was much more solid on the FA because we actually bolted the upper end of one side to the rock and had a sling over a flake for the other (the world's biggest bolt hanger?). Bachar just yanked the ladder off (and bolt out) so he could do it free.

With this more solid perch, we were able to stand tip-toe on top of the ladder to begin the nice finger crack.

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