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Hoodgie Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankles Away S 
East Face Block TR 
East Face Hueco TR 
Escuche Vaca Heard T 
Holy Shiite, Muslim! T 
Hoodgie T 
Leonosphere S 
NorthEast Arete TR 
Original Route T 


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jackie Carroll, Michael Strassman
Page Views: 1,276
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Joe Watkins climbs Hoodgie, in the Alabama Hills


Excellent, steep face climbing at a moderate grade. NOT a sport route--only 4 bolts protect the route.

Contributor's note: I have NOT led this route. It is possible to traverse right from the anchor atop Ankles Away (easy 5th class) in order to set up a top-rope. Don't miss this high quality route!


The right side of Hoodgie Wall (look for a bolt about 25 feet up). See photo


4 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos of Hoodgie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe lowers off Hoodgie in the Alabama Hills
Joe lowers off Hoodgie in the Alabama Hills
Rock Climbing Photo: "Hoodgie". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Hoodgie". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Hoodgie Add Comment
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By Blitzo
Apr 14, 2008

A fun easy route. A little run getting to the first bolt, but it's super easy.
By Bruce Willey
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 29, 2008

Nice route and spicy for the belayer, especially with a rattlesnake crawling out of the rope bag.
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
May 14, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

You mean "traverse left" to get to the anchor of Ankles Away.

Not a bad route.
By maggie-girl Wenski
Apr 26, 2012

Dave- be careful with "to and from" you guys are both describing the same place, only Mathew described how to TR the 5.6 from the anchor of the sport bolted climb to its left.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

More character than the better protected routes to the left due to its longer run-outs,and IMHO better because of it. Just lead it or leave it alone.
By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

one of my favorite climbs in the hills. the bolt spacing is traditional, but the climbing is easy. great climb for focusing on your mental game.
By JC w KC redux
Jun 29, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

People that are calling this 6 are either using the JTree scale or comparing it to the Reg Rte - which is an old school 6. Neither route is 6 compared to other 6's and 7's in the Hills. I have onsighted nearly every 6 and 7 in the Marty Lewis book.
By hikingdrew
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 22, 2016

Bolts are painted and tricky to see. First bolt is 20' up and there is a 20' runout between the last bolt and the anchors. A horizontal crack can take a #1 or so to protect the last 10'..

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