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Honk in the Tunnel 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Eric Candee?
Page Views: 502
Submitted By: D-Storm on Dec 11, 2012

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This route starts from a ledge 50 feet up the left side of the main wall, which is probably why it hasn't seen much traffic. A friend and I recently dusted the holds off and found what I think is the best 12b at the cliff. It seems to be all natural as well, which is not the norm for 5.12s here.

The route is easily picked out by a prominent, V-shaped inset with a bush growing out of it near the top. The first four bolts getting to the inset are the crux. There is a tricky clip at the fourth bolt, just before establishing on the smooth, right-slanting ramp that defines the V. There's a bomber rest at the top of the ramp that utilizes a big hole with an abandoned beehive in it (pretty cool to look at). From there, follow the slash up and right on big holds with long reaches. There's some sneaky beta for one span. A pump crux stares you down at the end and two more bolts take you to anchors shared with Experience.


The current approach is to scramble up the fixed ropes that go to The Long Haul and follow ropes out to the right on the ledge below TLH, which is one ledge higher on the left (there are two sets of fixed lines that go to The Long Haul; the ropes in question are on the right and you have to scramble up a chossy ramp to reach them).


With a 70-meter rope, your partner can belay from the ground. A direct start might be bolted at some point to make the route more fun and accessible. From the ledge, there are nine bolts to an anchor with fixed biners.

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