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Honk If You're Mungy! 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Pelczarski, Brent Larsen, Rene Ohms and Jerry Wingenter. 2016. Ground Up.
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall. Brief Morning Sun. Lots of Afternoon Shade.
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: BBQ on Sep 17, 2016

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A well-protected mixed route with enough generously placed bolts to make it super safe. This is probably one of the best 5.8 face climbs in The Chessmen. Starts on some good five six terrain with an easy traverse that leads to a crack that sucks up a 0.4 Black Diamond Cam. Follow even easier terrain to the first bolt and enjoy a swath of great holds that seem to trend left as the terrain gets steeper. A crux in the middle of the climb requires the climber to boogie to the right and then crimp and edge their way up a couple of bolts to a ladder of honkin' holds to the top. FUN! FUN! FUN! 100% fun with just enough of a spaced out thrill at the top. Climbers who found their face climbing passion later in life will flock to this one. Be prepared to wait in line. HONK! HONK!


North West Face. Locate Mungy Horse and walk around the base of the spire till you reach a dark, narrow corridor. Keep trending right at the base of the spire and exit the narrow corridor into a small, green meadow of grass. Route is located just right of pine tree.


Smaller cams for finger cracks, seven bolts and bolted anchors. All bolts were placed with a hand drill on lead from stances or using hooks.

An extra bolt, located way out left, is the beginning of an unfinished variation that will someday move left and into an incipient crack feature. This extension might be very hard and would be a great project for mungy mutant teenagers from the future.

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