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Honeyshine 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 695
Submitted By: Mitchell Allen on Mar 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the top of the route.

Description 

Right-facing dihedral taking #2-3.5 camalots. Start with wide hands for about 12 ft of easy climbing to a steeper section. Crack narrows to solid handjams through steepest part to a ledge. From the ledge work into a tight chimney placing marginal, thin gear to top. We built a belay using small nuts and cams in the chimney, then squeezed through to the top out.

Edit: Two glue-in bolt anchors have been added at the top of this route. There is considerable rope drag when top roping. I would suggest rappelling off of the climb to limit rope drag.

Location 

Once on top of the long slab, keep heading north looking for a huge detached, chossy pillar. The perfect dihedral is a little ways to the left of the detached pillar. It's directly right of some wandering 5.6ish face cracks about 60 yards to the south of the northernmost extent of the formation.

Protection 

Dihedral crack takes #2-3 camalots, cracks in chimney take nuts or small cams. Didn't seem to be many good bushes or cracks to belay from very top. Route could be more fun with a simple bolt anchor.


Photos of Honeyshine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Following up just at the top of the handcrack.
Following up just at the top of the handcrack.
Rock Climbing Photo: From the start of the route.  Crux is the steeper ...
BETA PHOTO: From the start of the route. Crux is the steeper ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the chimney section.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the chimney section.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crack as seen from the slickrock approach.
BETA PHOTO: The crack as seen from the slickrock approach.

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