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The Bride
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Honeymoon T 
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Honeymoon 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A2 [details]
FA: Eric Bjornstad, Fred Beckey, Jim Hudock 1972
Page Views: 872
Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Jun 24, 2008

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Matt Pickren on the stud-ladder on pitch one.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This was the first route to be established on the Bride and is still a fairly serious undertaking today. Like Sam says on the Little Valley page, the rock here is very soft for wingate and climbs more like entrada. Expect a little spice.

PItch 1 - This pitch begins with a stud-ladder about 100 feet to the left (when viewed from the road) of the Bride in a short, shallow, right facing dihedral. Above the stud-ladder this pitch follows a left facing dihedral and eventually climbs a gully to access the bench behind the Bride. (C1, 5.7)

Pitch 2 - From the top of the first pitch, scramble along the bench to the opposite side of the Bride and climb a short bit of unprotected 5.6 to reach the saddle directly behind the Bride. (5.6 R)

Pitch 3 - This is the business. From the saddle, traverse right to a crack. Follow this crack until it ends and continue upward on rivets and pitons with the occasional gear placement. The first ascent party climbed this in two pitches but the midpoint anchor is 4 empty holes and after I filled them all and equalized the whole thing, I still didn't feel comfortable letting Matt jug on it.

I chose to continue and suffered horrendous rope drag near the top for not using enough runners low on the pitch. This pitch corkscrews around the tower counter-clock wise so manage your rope accordingly. There are some mandatory free moves at the top. (5.6, A2)

Rappel the Honeymoon Chimney route on big, new bolts courtesy of Sam and the ASCA.


Protection 

Two sets of cams up to #3Camalot
Extra green Alien and yellow Alien
A selection of pitons that's heavy in 3/4" to 1-1/4" angles (sawed off angles very helpful)
1 pink and 1 red tri-cam
Tie-offs, rivet hangers


Photos of Honeymoon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt nearing the summit.  In case you're wondering...
Matt nearing the summit. In case you're wondering...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the Bride from the scramble between pit...
Looking at the Bride from the scramble between pit...

Comments on Honeymoon Add Comment
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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jun 25, 2008

Brad;.....I remember spending many hours on the lead with this climb;...I went so slow, I went through 3 different belayers, because they all got so sunburned. I remember crappy rock, shallow holes without something bounded in them, and lots of scary wobbly "stuff" fixed in drilled holes that I feared would come out with my body weight. I also remember banging pins in holes, and as soon as the pin reached the back of the hole, the pin would boing all the way out..I felt bad going so slow on what was for a long ways basically a bolt ladder.....but I was scared.......We had fun.....Even though we had a big crew....I believe only Margie Floyd Evans and I reached the summit that day..... Cool summit. Desert summits and diapers;...a great combination! The best of both worlds. Life is sweet!
By Brad Brandewie
Jun 30, 2008

Todd,
I hear you about the long lead. I'm certain that I set no speed records on that climb. (Thanks for the patient belay Matt!)

I also found shallow holes with nothing in them on the last pitch. I was pretty stoked to have a set of sawed off angles. Otherwise there would have been even more tying off and it would have taken even longer.

Being a parent is wonderful but I still prefer desert summits to diapers. :) On the other hand, Owen took his first steps this weekend which was cooler than any summit!

Cottontail this Fall?
By Michael Buchanan
Feb 22, 2013

Fred Beckey and Jim Hudock was also on the FA (AAJ 1972)