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Lori working the jams on Honest Abe.
This is a great route with plenty of good pro and sustained challenging climbing throughout. Start by mantling up onto a ledge (move protected by a bolt). Climb a steep strenuous crack with good pro and mantel again onto another sloping ledge. Good wires protect the last crux dihedral and a final bolt protects the exit moves to the anchor.
The guidebook gives this route 12a but I didn't feel it was that difficult. A consensus grade should narrow it down, but I felt it was somewhere around 11c/d.
This is the first route you see on Lincoln Creek Cliff on the far left end of the crag.
This is a mixed route with two bolts and gear to 2". Bring some small to medium stoppers also. 2 bolt anchor.
Gabe working on the last hard move before the anch...
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
This compact route has it all tricky mantels, burly liebacks, and steep tip-locks capped with a pumpy traverse and another mantel! I underestimated how hard it would be before I onsighted this yesterday in slightly wet conditions. It felt every bit of 12a then, but obviously my experience isn't the benchmark. Nonetheless, this route will test your repertoire of skills and power. Super fun!
By Amos Whiting
From: Basalt, Colorado
Jul 12, 2015
I feel like this route is pass .12a. With a ledge fall getting to the second bolt. I'm not a big fan. I'd say 1 star