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Homestake Road Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 S,TR 
5.9 S 
Don't Drag the Dog S 
Dude I think I Lost My Wallet S 
Far Left 5.8 S 
Gomer Alert S 
Neon Noodle S 
Night and Day S,TR 
Psychic Bomber S 
Three's a Charm S 
Transmogrifier S 
Wolfman Shuffle S 

Homestake Road Crag Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 39.47072, -106.37294 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,994
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John McNamee on Jun 30, 2009
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Homestake Crag.


The Homestake Crag (AKA Homespank, after the sustained pumpy routes) is a small, super accessible, sport climbing crag consisting of about 10 climbs ranging from 5.9 to 5.12a. This is a great crag for a quick post-work pump session, but is not recommended for a destination area. All routes are excellently bolted with more bolts through crux sequences to keep us all from decking. The majority of these routes are very quality with unique/fun crux sequences and intriguing holds (crimps, slopers, sidepulls, underclings, etc.). The rock is very featured, slightly overhanging in the middle, and routes range from 35 feet to 85 feet.

Camping is plentiful all along Homestake Rd., but get there early during the weekends for the money spots as it tends to get rather busy due to the easy access of the National Forest. Provisions can be found in Minturn (coming from the North) or Leadville (from the South). However, there is a great bar/restaurant in Redcliff called Mango's which is highly recommended.

This submission was intended to get the ball rolling for this little crag. If anyone can contribute FA info, pics, more detailed route info, etc. please let me know and I'd be happy to add/change what is currently there.

Getting There 

From the North: after crossing the large green bridge in Redcliff on US 24, continue 3 miles or so until you reach Homestake Rd. on your right. Follow Homestake Rd., and you will cross Homestake Creek after 1/2 mile or so. Go another 1/4 mile, and the crag can easily be seen on the right.

From the South: go 20 miles +/- from Leadville on US 24. Take a left at Homestake Rd., and follow the above directions.

There is a climber's trail on the right, and the approach to the cliff is 30 seconds.

Climbing Season

Weather station 11.2 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Homestake Road Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Homestake Road Crag:
Three's a Charm   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Don't Drag the Dog   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Psychic Bomber   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Neon Noodle   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Dude I think I Lost My Wallet   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Homestake Road Crag

Featured Route For Homestake Road Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't Drag the Dog.

Don't Drag the Dog 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Colorado : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag
The crux comes with the crimp series about mid route. It is a fun route with an interesting sequence!Harder start past three bolts but the holds are positive. Considerably easier to the top. This is the second route in from the right side of the crag. It is the middle of the three short-ish routes to the right of the 5.9 that goes high up the middle of the rock...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Homestake Road Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Central Homestake Crag.
BETA PHOTO: Central Homestake Crag.
Rock Climbing Photo: Right side of Homestake Crag
BETA PHOTO: Right side of Homestake Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful fall day at Homestake Crag.
Beautiful fall day at Homestake Crag.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yaeger gettin' after it.
Yaeger gettin' after it.
Rock Climbing Photo: Showing the middle routes of the Homestake Wall.
Showing the middle routes of the Homestake Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the Homestake Cliff from the parking on th...
View of the Homestake Cliff from the parking on th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Early Homestake Climbing Guide, paper.
BETA PHOTO: Early Homestake Climbing Guide, paper.
Rock Climbing Photo: JVonD rocking a self-belay knot system. Super clas...
JVonD rocking a self-belay knot system. Super clas...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is that 11c? on the right side of the wall. I...
Here is that 11c? on the right side of the wall. I...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun boulder just east of the Homestake cliff in th...
Fun boulder just east of the Homestake cliff in th...

Comments on Homestake Road Crag Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 12, 2017
By CA3
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 26, 2010
5.10a/b has a tough midsection move that warrants a higher rating.
5.10b is fantastic (second from right).
5.11a is a great route, watch out for chossy boulder before last bolt.
By mike argueso
Sep 18, 2010
Homespank has nothing to do with this crag. The REAL Homespank is a few miles down the road and blows this place away!
By coop Best
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 28, 2010
Fun wall and routes, can't beat the approach and beautiful nearby camping. There are some other walls to the east near the camping that could see a few lines if someone is willing.

Mike, if Homespank is truly another area, please post up some information.
By Owen Darrow
From: Garmisch,
Oct 16, 2010
This is a pretty fun place, but Mike has me feeling a bit confused. I've never heard of Homespank, but this makes me want to take a look... anyone else checked this out?
By Ryan Byrn
Oct 20, 2010
Sounds like there is another area to Homestake. I will do some looking next time I'm around.

I'm willing to check this out with anyone....

Here is what I believe Homestake Crag to be from left to right:

Neon Noodle
Wolfman Shuffle
Three's a Charm
Night and Day
Physic Bomber
Don't Drag the Dog
Gomer Alert
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Oct 20, 2010
From what I know, Homespank is supposed to be further up the Homestake Road in the vicinity of a big switchback. There's only one big switchback on Homestake Road a short distance before the reservoir. There are reported to be about 50 routes there.
By Kirsten KDog
Jun 11, 2012
Maybe it's because I'm completely out of climbing shape (!), but everything I got on at this wall felt pretty stiff for the grade. But who knows, maybe I wasn't what I thought I was on! Reminded me a lot of some walls in Boulder Canyon. Cool little spot if you're in the area, gets nice afternoon shade too.
By Rob Culbertson
Jul 1, 2012
Since the "locals" have been such prix about revealing Homespank, here's how to find it. It's about 8 miles on up the road. Just before [about 200 yards before] - the road start climbing left into the switchback you'll usually see several cars parked along the flat. This is where you'll eventually park. However, continue on up the road, and upon exiting the righthand switchback you'll be on a shelf road. In less than a mile you'll come around a left hand turn and see the Homestake Dam for the first time. STOP, you've gone 100ft to far. Back down to the pullout just before that curve and get out. Looking across the valley - mostly North you can now see the Homespank cliffs. You can see anyone over there if you have binoculars. However, since you're here, there's a cliffline immediatelyl uphill from you. walk down the road about 25yards and enter the woods [uphill] immediately right of the huge boulder. There's kind of a path, but follow the developing cliffline and in about 50-60yds you'll come to the first two routes. Another 100ft past these there are four really nice bolted routes. The first one on the black arete seemed 11ish, the next one - with the small roof - very fun - probably 9+ or 10a, then two more 11ish ones up the bright orange lichens. Bring mosquito repellent!!!!!
By vitruvian112358
Jul 25, 2012
You're right, Rob. I don't know why the locals are so territorial about this place, everyone and their mom knows about it. It was way too packed with people when I went. It was early, too. Most places don't get like that til 8 or so. It reminded me of Clear Creek on a Saturday afternoon. I was even up there during the US 24 closer due to the sinkhole. However, the directions are simple: from Minturn, go south. After crossing the large green bridge in Redcliff on US 24, continue 3 miles or so until you reach Homestake Rd. on your right. Follow Homestake Rd. and you will cross Homestake Creek after 1/2 mile or so. Go another 1/4 mile, and the crag can easily be seen on the right.
By Kris S
From: Ocean Beach, SF
Aug 20, 2012
Thanks for the effort on Homespank directions everybody :P If this is in fact the big wall that runs for a 1/4 mile uphill above the gigantic talus field, then comers beware: The approach trail is several hundred yards down the road from where the "flat parking" is described (there are a couple 1-2 car pullouts in the vicinity) and it's nearly impossible to find if you don't know what you're looking for. The trail is difficult to follow through the talus and is completely unmarked. The rock at the cliff (except potentially the very highest section) is loose, dirty, and 'sportily' bolted. The rock quality, hike, and 8 miles of driving on a gravel, washboard road make this a no-go for anyone seeking a good time. If that's not the crag, then will someone PLEASE post a helpful description of the approach and perhaps submit some route info for it?!?!?
By Dougald MacDonald
Jun 27, 2015
This is a fun little crag, definitely worth a visit, but there are fewer routes than shown here (there is duplication). The two long 5.10s in the middle (first and second routes to the left of the 5.9) are listed twice here, and also there are only two 5.10s on the shorter right side. In all, there are 10 bolted lines here, not the 13 listed on this site. Having done all but two of them now, my opinion on the approximate grades:

From left to right:

5.9 (depending on how you do it)
Didn't do, said to be 5.11
Hard 5.10
Hard 5.9
Didn't do, but said to be 5.11+
Hard 5.10
Hard 5.10 or easy 11.
By Joncharlesdavis
Sep 24, 2015
There is a drawing of most of the routes in the pictures to clear up any confusion.
Jul 14, 2016
Hi, I found some climbing gear left at this crag. Found 7/14 will send to owner.
By ZachP
From: Avon CO
May 31, 2017
Found a lost quickdraw here 5/31/17 by the far left 5.8. Send me a PM if it's yours, and I'll figure out how to get it back to you.
By monie
Sep 12, 2017
Hey! I think I left a silver Grigri, red gloves, and belay glasses at Homestake last week. If anyone finds them, please text me!
Thanks, Simone 970-471-4833

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