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Homebrew 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Marty Lewis & Fred Berman, 1993
Page Views: 775
Submitted By: Jonathan Howland on Oct 11, 2007

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Whip King sending Homebrew on the left - Awesome s...

Description 

Steep and engaging, good holds abounding, energy conservation is the principal challenge. Two cruxes -- clipping the bolt right above the roof, and then passing the 7th bolt.
After clipping the 8th: a long move left to an obvious shelf/hold leads to much easier climbing above. Going straight up is harder (11d).

Location 

The line of bolts just left of Hardly Wallbanger.

Protection 

9 bolts -- to cold shut anchors.


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By Todd Graham
Dec 12, 2016

At the 8th bolt get the deep hole/pocket with your left hand, and two fingers in the small pocket in your face. Backstep right foot on edge at your knees and launch for the rail above. So good.