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Lower Peanuts
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Your Basic Lieback T 

Home Free 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: R. & J. Rossiter, 1987
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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  • Description 

    Approach this climb at lower section of the top of the Northwest face of Lower Peanuts wall by [following] the trail to the main West Arete of the wall. From there, scramble up a left-leaning ramp to a good ledge.

    From the ledge, about 40' right of the start of [Star Wars], or 20' right of Double Cracks (and the large pine tree which obscures it) you will see a large left facing open-book with a flake on the right side. Climb & stem up the corner on thin holds and sometimes thin gear. (5.10d) This is the mental crux of the route, but it seemed safe. After this sustained section, you will reach a ledge to belay on.

    From the belay, start up and left into left-facing flake which is followed (placing gear) to a ledge. From the rest on this ledge a bolt is visible up and right on the face. Climb past this bolt and up into a small roof (thin crux) to clip another bolt above. Pull through the roof and go up and left on the line of least resistance to a final short dihedral above overhang near the top (moderate). Go up this corner on good gear to the top (5.8).

    Walk up and right (southwest) on the sumit ridge to the saddle between Upper and Lower Peanuts wall, then down the loose trail to return to the base.

    This route was fun, but not as aesthetic as some of the other face climbs on peanuts, such as Sunrider or Forbidden Planet.


    This is a mixed route, but gear is definitely required unless you solo 5.10d.

    The first pitch gear is reasonable, but not always where you want it, and is sometimes a little tough to fish in. Once again, this is not a good place to push your limits.

    Comments on Home Free Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Shane Zentner
    From: Colorado
    Jun 19, 2006

    I made the mistake of trying to climb directly above the flake to the bolt, which is a difficult series of moves with a sketchy cam placement in the flake. Apparently, as mentioned by Tony, the route goes left at the flake and then to the ledge. I obviously missed this and went straight for the bolt (bad idea). The flake is strong but I wouldn't trust it to hold a fall. Going for the bolt directly from the flake is sketchy as hell, so I climbed around it.

    The first pitch is definitely doable, although as mentioned, I wouldn't push your limits here (I'm a 5.10 leader and this was a thinker). The gear is good, just be certain to be quick about placing it. Aliens, Aliens, Aliens, and a #3 BD stopper.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Jun 20, 2009

    You might be in trouble if you are under 6ft on P2. There is a reach to the first bolt and to the solution jug. After the crux, it is possible to head right instead of left. It looked more secure and had less lichen.
    By doug rouse
    From: Denver, CO.
    Jul 22, 2009

    Wew went up and did this again on Sunday. I was able to protect the first pitch with small stoppers, and RP's. The large flake just before the 1st pitch crux is now loose, and will change the beta when it cuts loose. Still a nice route. 2nd pitch did not seem as tough as it was 15-years ago...
    By Rob DeZonia
    Sep 6, 2011

    I didn't realize this was two pitches. We always just do it in one pitch with the use of some runners. My brother is a little fella, about 5'8" with shoes on, and never had an issue with the crux. It's just a more committing move for the wee person, but you're on top rope because of a well placed bolt. This is a nice technical climb. I brought a strong gym climber here once and it was like V4 for him.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Jul 9, 2014

    Clipping the bolt is scary going straight off the flake.... I don't really understand where people usually go on this.
    By michalm
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 31, 2015
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    Overall, good route with two 10+ to 11- cruxes and some questionable rock that should be treated with care. Red or yellow ballnuts or small nuts may be helpful on the first pitch. One can stand on the questionably attached flake with questionably solid gear placed behind it and tiptoe over to the bolt on fingertip underclings.
    By Jeff Buhl
    Aug 13, 2016
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    The two protection bolts on Home Free were updated to half-inch stainless steel bolts. Many thanks to ACE, Eldorado State Park and to Bruce Hildenbrand for the support and the help. A picture of what came out of the rock shown below:

    Rock Climbing Photo: Bolt removed from Home Free.
    Bolt removed from Home Free.

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