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Home Cliff

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Cotter Crack Buttress 
Main Corner 
Peggy Area 

Home Cliff Rock Climbing 


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Location: 45.52589, -75.96904 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,470
Administrators: Luc-514, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jfaub on Jun 26, 2014
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The trail towards Home Cliff, about 15 min then an...

  • All routes east (climber's right) of Piton Highway are closed to climbing by the NCC. Clifftop access is restricted to the area between Main Corner and Peggy
  • NCC Gatineau Park restrictions MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    • *This page is a work in progress. I will add pictures and routes shortly**

    Good selection of climbing on solid granite. Difficulty ranges from rediculously easy (5.1) to hard (5.12+). Most of the climbing here is traditional or mixed (gear and bolts). The cliff is home to many old-school trad routes and area classics like Piton Highway (5.7), Peggy (5.7+) Rupert Bear Goes Hiking (5.9) and The Original Route (5.10c). However, there are also harder sport routes like Direttissisma (5.11a), Joy of Life (5.11a) and some unnamed 5.12's.

    The area is known for it's stiff grades ; many climbs were put up in the period between the 1950's and the 1980's. Keep that in mind. A notorious sandbag is Cotter Crack, which gets 5.10b, but many say the grade is more in the range of 5.11a/b (speculation, as I have not yet done it myself). Only one way to find out...

    Getting There 

    From Ottawa, Make your way across the river to Gatineau, and then head west to eventually get on the 148 (this can be done by any number of variations). Follow the 148 until you start to see the escarpement (It will be obvious on a clear day). A short while after this, turn right onto Crégheur road. Follow the road (heads directly towards the escarpement) which takes a 90 degree turn to the left. After this turn, look to your right, you will see a small farm close to the road. Pass the farm. Very shortly after, the road bends around a grassy knoll. Behind this knoll and to the left, you will see a small pullout. Park here.

    Approach : Exit the car and walk back towards the farm you just passed by. On the left side of the road, there will be a field with a trail splitting it. Follow the trail to an NCC sign. Go left at the sign. (Right goes to Farm Rock and other closed cliffs) Hike uphill for a few minutes, and you will be deposited near the Peggy area. (Approach is about 15 minutes and easy)

    Climbing Season

    For the Outaouais area.

    Weather station 4.3 miles from here

    11 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',6],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


    Featured Route For Home Cliff
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Piton Highway.

    Piton Highway 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  North America : Canada : ... : Peggy Area
    A classic. Much, much better climbing than it looks like from below. Old-school funky trad climbing. Do it!Scramble up to a small sloping ledge on jugs. (It may be wise for your belayer to anchor in, as the stance is awkward.) Place some gear to prevent yourself from falling and dragging down your belayer. Make some moves above a ledge (don't fall), find jugs, and fire in some small cams into what seems to be piton scars. Climb up to a square block, and pass it on the right on jugs (exposed). On...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

    Photos of Home Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Home Cliff from the approach trail in the field.
    Home Cliff from the approach trail in the field.

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