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Back to Montana S,TR 
Cochiti Classic T 
Cochiti Ugly T,TR 
Empty and Meaningless S 
Feminist Men S 
Grunge Up the Munge T 
Gunning for the Buddha S 
Holy Wars S,TR 
La Espina S,TR 
Laurel's Climb S 
Monkey Lust S 
Montana Deviate T,S 
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T,TR 
Napoleon Blown-Apart S 
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) S 
Pickpocket S 
Praise the Lunge S 
Thief Crack T 
Thief in Time S 
To Catch A Thief S 
Touch Monkey S 
Unknown S 
Unknown - Boulder Left S 

Holy Wars 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kristin Drumheller, Bill Dockins
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Greg Pirkl on Holy Wars, 1989

Description 

This is a good route on excellent rock. Unfortunately the crux start demoralizes many would-be climbers. Begin with a beautiful set of heavily chalked pockets that are unfortunately much more thin and slopy than they appear from the ground. Once you are 3 feet off the ground the pockets improve dramatically and the climbing eases. This is the first opportunity to clip the first bolt, so a stick clip is recommended. More good pockets lead to a horizontal break, then a short thin section that leads to a sea of unusual nubbins and small chickenheads. Follow the steepening wall to the anchor.

Location 

Two routes left (N) of Gunning for the Buddha.

Protection 

[4] bolts, 2 BA. This ones easy to toprope.


Photos of Holy Wars Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the hard start of Holy Wars.
Just above the hard start of Holy Wars.

Comments on Holy Wars Add Comment
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By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 8, 2008

Beverly's book indicates that Montana Deviate (5.9+) starts on Holy Wars and bends right near the top. This is wrong. The 5.9+ way up the face heavily relies upon using the wide crack on the right.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

There are 4 bolts on this route. (Perhaps the 2nd bolt is newer than the guidebooks, which only mention 3?)

The original Samet guide recommends bringing a TCU to go in the crack before the last bolt; I wish I'd known that. Bring a cam (#1 camalot recommended, but slightly smaller is ok), because it's a long ways between the 3rd and 4th bolt. If you get up there and get scared, you can chicken out and go right to Montana Deviate, which I considered.

The moves before the first bolt are easier for tall people, and seem harder than 5.9+ (the rating for Montana Deviate, which supposedly shares the start?). Tall people can also reach the 1st bolt by stemming off the boulder behind.

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