REI Community
Upper Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete Route T 
Beast of No Nation T 
Burnt Offerings T 
Cabin Fever S 
Char Broiled T 
Crispy Critters TR 
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 
Dot to Dot T 
Fear of Flying T 
Ginger Bread T 
Harrison Direct Variation T 
Holy Smoke T 
Jugs Revisited T 
Lesbian Love S 
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 
North Ridge T 
Robert's Aid Crack T 
Smokehouse Brown T 
Steppin' Stone T 
T-Bone S 
Thanksgiving T 
Up for Grabs T 

Holy Smoke 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Aidan Maguire, 2000
Page Views: 1,540
Submitted By: snowhazed on Oct 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>


Per ST- "Sustained, balancy, and powerful". Unique and improbable movement. 5.11 climbing at third bolt. Crux move at fourth bolt requires dynamic movement to a gaston finger lock in horizontal roof crack. 5.10 to the chains.


Starts off big shelf to the left of Steppin' Stone. Goes through obvious bulge and roof combo. Finishes on same anchor as Steppin' Stone.


Trad pro .6 to 1.5" plus 6 bolts. Can clip first bolt by going high on starting shelf - then can continue from there of step back down to start climbing directly beneath the bolt.

Comments on Holy Smoke Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aidan Maguire
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Route is rated 11d and depends a bit on reach at crux. Option gear is not optional unless very bold and up to 1.5 inch
By Vlad S
Feb 2, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The dyno to a gaston fingerlock move was much harder than 5.11 for me as an average height person. There are no feet for that move as well, so being stronger wouldn't even help much. It's all about reach. The climbing up to that point is already in the 5.11+ range. Cool route! I'll try it again once I grow a few inches.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jun 29, 2015

Killer route, Aiden. I'd say the lower half is low 11/10+ until the gaston fingerlock move. As for that, the move is very doable at average height in my opinion. I am 5'10" and had no problems. Sure, it's a bit hard, and I would give it 11d, but my 5'3" girlfriend was consistently within 1 inch of a solid lock. Overall great route, and don't get scared of the reach! Thanks for the addition, Aiden.
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Dec 13, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Up there with Lesbian Love in terms of quality. Hard. I definitely whipped.
By Ned
Jun 19, 2016

TRed after climbing Steppin Stone. Among the list of holds I never thought I'd have to use at Phantom Spires, there's a bomber mono about half way up. The footless gaston fingerlock dyno was definitely a different level of bouldery than the rest of the climb, but fun moves. Decided not to booty a leaver biner two bolts down from there, it was starting to get worn through, as if a lot of people bailed there.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About