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Holy Roller 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 440', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Joe French, Brody Greer (9/06), FFA: French, Zach Lee (2007)
Page Views: 1,134
Submitted By: George Perkins on Nov 14, 2010

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Joe Stern coming up the 3rd pitch, October 2010

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Holy Roller seeks out the right of the 3 prominent vertical splitter cracks at the north end of Mt. Spry (the left line is "Sandblaster", and the middle one is "Central Pillar"). The thing is, this crack doesn't start at the base of the route, so a bolt-protected face pitch gains it, with a couple great pitches as a reward. This aspect of Mt. Spry is shaded in the a.m. and sees afternoon sun.

P1: Climb a hand/fist crack in a right facing corner to a bolted anchor (5.9, 60').
P2: Follow the bolts up and right, through intricate face climbing. Most of the pitch is bolt-protected, but you'll need 1-3 pieces of gear for a finger/hand crack just below the anchor (5.10+, 90').
P3: Face climb up and left past 2 bolts. Enter a left trending crack system and follow this on a ramp past a bulge to a bolted belay (5.11, 100').
P4: Splitter hands straight up, passing a couple of bulges to a bolted belay (5.11, 100').
P5: Splitter hand crack to a pod (5.9?, 40').
Descent: Rap the route (we had 2x 60m, but 1 would probably work). With 2 ropes, go straight from the p3 to p1 anchors, rather than swinging over to the 2nd belay.


The face with Holy Roller and Sandblaster is pretty clear on the north side of Mt. Spry's west face. Park at the last pull-off on the right before reaching Court of the Patriarchs and hike up the hill (no trail).


2 ea. cams to 4", and 7-8 quickdraws.

Photos of Holy Roller Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Neil Kauffman follows the splitter on pitch 5.
Neil Kauffman follows the splitter on pitch 5.

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By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Nov 15, 2010

4 4 and 5
By b hof
From: Pueblo West, CO
Feb 25, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The 1st and 2nd pitch can be linked and a #5 is optional, we only used it on the 1st pitch. If you link the last 2 pitches save 2 #2s and 2 #3s to do the 5.9 pitch.
By DoubleA
Nov 10, 2013

For the approach: Park at the pullout on the right or have the bus drop you off, then walk back down canyon to the big drainage grate. Walk straight up the boulder-strewn wash from here and it will take you right to the base of the wall. We schwacked our way straight uphill from the pullout (HEINOUS), not recommended.
Link 1 and 2, climb 3, and link 4 and 5. With a 70m we were able to get down in 4 raps, with about 3 feet of down climbing to the ground. Awesome route.
By Crusty McGumby
Apr 8, 2014

Excellent route. The second pitch felt for me like the crux of the route. Technical face climbing till you get to the crack. Felt harder than the face pitch on Voices from the Dust. Much respect to the first ascent party for bolting that one on lead. It was nice to have doubles of small cams for the third pitch. nuts might have worked even better. Don't climb it if it is even close to wet, it would suck if the second pitch got any harder, and some placements are crunchy. morning shade afternoon sun. Classic Zion mixed route. Enjoy
By Neil Kauffman
Feb 22, 2015

Great route! A minimal but sufficient rack: 2x .3-#2 Camalot, 1-#3, #4 (first pitch only)

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