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Wipeyur Buttress
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Holy Crap 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tzilla and Co.
Season: any, faces south but gets afternoon shade
Page Views: 958
Submitted By: slim on Sep 10, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Below the crux.

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Description 

Holy Crap is probably the centerpiece route at Wipeyur Buttress. The climbing is steep, athletic, technical, and sustained.

Begin by figuring out a good plan for the belayer. The belay area is steep with multiple small ledges, and there are tradeoffs in terms of seeing the climber, reducing rope drag, and avoiding rockfall.

The route starts at the bottom of the corner and shoots straight right on steep rock with good holds for 3 or 4 bolts (this section can be a little wet during rainy weather). Jet straight up through the true crux, and try to regain some juice for the relentless series of potential heartbreaker, redpoint cruxes above. This section isn't really that hard, but it is very sustained and pumpy. The rock on the upper section is very smooth and technical.

The climbing is fantastic, but be careful for some loose holds. Wwe pulled a few off, and there are some others that are iffy also.

Location 

On the right side of Wipeyur Buttress, there is a large, overhanging wall that makes up the right face of a huge cave/dihedral. Holy Crap starts in the lower left corner of this right face and heads pretty much straight to the right for 3 or 4 bolts and then directly upwards on steep rock for a long ways. There is a 2 bolt anchor on a ledge, as well as a fixed chain with a biner about halfway up to help make cleaning the route possible.

Protection 

Many bolts (you can probably count them from below, but it is probably in the 15 to 20 range, plus 2 bolts at the anchors.


Photos of Holy Crap Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start.
BETA PHOTO: The start.

Comments on Holy Crap Add Comment
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By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Oct 17, 2014

Very, very solid climb! I won't talk about it too much, but bring your endurance... it's about 17? bolts, I believe! You can also bail halfway after the first crux on a perma. Have fun!

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