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Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beck's Bet T 
Candyman TR 
Double Dogleg T 
Euthyphro T 
Fortune Cookie T 
Griffin, The T 
Holly Device T 
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 
Personal Space TR 
Pop Rocks T 
Rock Candy T 
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 
Rock-a-Lot T 
Silent But Deadly T 
Smithereens T 
Spitwad T 
Split Personality T 
Top of the Pops T 
Unknown T 
Yi T 
Young Lust T 

Holly Device 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Tom Michael, Mark Walters & Jeff Jarvi, 1987
Season: Gets late afternoon sun
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: john durr on Jan 27, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Holly Device is a super fun mixed face route with really pleasant holds up a steep featured buttress, plus a typical Josh grain finish above the last bolt!

Location 

This is the furthest left of three mixed face routes about 100' left of Spitwad. Begins up a steep, but moderate left curving crack.

To descend, walk off to the east or scramble west 4th class to the bolted rap anchor above Young Lust.

Protection 

Four brand-new ASCA bolts, a couple finger to hand size cams for the easy crack leading up to the first bolt. Many options for the belay but most will find small TCU's to 1" work well.


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By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Feb 8, 2015

On the first ascent;..there were only three bolts;......i was so scared at the top that I couldn't stop to place a bolt. After I got to the top with a very long run out...i lowered down and added the last bolt. It was an exciting and memorable experience.

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