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Hollow Excuses 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Gary Olsen & Stuart Ruckman 1987
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Todd H on Jun 10, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Hollow Excuses

Description 

Climb the prominent flake system. The big hollow tooth at the beginning slightly rattles. That, and some loose blocks above, makes this a spooky lead. The left angling section of the flake high on the route is solid and has some cool climbing which somewhat redeems the overall experience.

Location 

Walking uphill from below the top end of the slab ramp, Hollow Excuses is the big left facing flake feature encountered immediately after the first bolted line (Eraserhead). The start is shared with Pencilneck.

Protection 

Single set of cams up to #2 Camalot. A #3 or #4 fits behind the big tooth although it might not be the best idea. Build an anchor on top, then rap off another route such as Miller Time. Some may find it more convenient to stop 10' below the top and use the anchors for Against the Establishment.


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