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Holiday Road 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller, Alex Andrews. Variation left to finish: Ken Trout
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 9,188
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Aug 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (295)
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An 8 year old leads this climb prancing upwards in...

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  • Description 

    Enjoy your holiday, there might be a few twists and turns along the way, but the vacation isn't over till you pass the fork in the road and clip the anchors. Make your mind up at the fork; head left to keep your holiday casual or make a right for a trickier, more exciting finish.

    Location 

    About 30 feet left of Beasto you'll find a rock staircase leading to your belay pad in the jungle. Holiday Road is furthest to the right, the first route you encounter. This route has a fun variation to finish; the left fork goes at a casual 5.7.


    Protection 

    9 bolts to chain link anchors.


    Photos of Holiday Road Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Veronika's Easter Egg hunt! 7-years old.  4/21/14.
    Veronika's Easter Egg hunt! 7-years old. 4/21/14.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Myong on Holiday Road.
    Myong on Holiday Road.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Myong starting up Holiday Road.
    Myong starting up Holiday Road.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Carol enjoying a Holiday, 8-28-09.
    Carol enjoying a Holiday, 8-28-09.
    Rock Climbing Photo: "Rock Ladder" to belay for Holiday Road.
    BETA PHOTO: "Rock Ladder" to belay for Holiday Road.
    Rock Climbing Photo: All you ever wanted.
    All you ever wanted.

    Comments on Holiday Road Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 25, 2017
    By Alex A
    Aug 2, 2009

    A fun, easier climb, that makes you think at the crux, the last 8ft.
    By HansF
    From: Jackson, WY
    Aug 2, 2009
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Nice meeting you today Kirt and Kirt! I'd say it's a sustained 5.7 until the very last move which I'd call a solid 5.8. It's probably a little harder because of the mass amount of lichen on it right now. Great job and thanks again for all your hard work on the crag!
    By Casey Lems
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 3, 2009
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I agree. Cruising 5.7 until the last move. You can go far left to make things easier, but going over the face is a stiff 5.8 move. Another great route, Thanks so much, Kirk! Can't wait to get on the others you have lined up!
    By Jim Gloeckler
    From: Denver, Colo.
    Sep 4, 2009

    Start seems like 5.6 then a 5.7 move around the 50' level and then the finishing slab seems like 5.8+ to me. Thin holds and a few moves.
    Slightly harder than the crux on Bitty Buttress or Upper Ruper for that matter; both being only 2 move cruxes. Just my opinion, but then again I'm getting older now. Three stars.
    By Michael Kopinsky
    Aug 20, 2010

    Hardest part is getting a stance to clip the anchors.
    By Alan Robertson
    From: Denver, CO
    Jun 29, 2011
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    A friend slipped trying to get to the anchors last week. He hit the ledge below the headwall and broke his ankle. So be careful or give a tight belay to prevent similar accidents.
    By Teigon S.
    Aug 27, 2011

    I found the best way to get to the chains ( which can be considered unsafe) is to go a little right and up and over the top. Clove my rope to the anchors and swing back down. I usually do this if I'm just trying to set a top rope for people in a rush, but if you have the time, have fun jumpin to the chains on the direct route!!
    By Matt Pierce
    From: Denver, CO
    May 10, 2012

    I agree that the last 8-10 feet is the crux. That last bolt before the anchors was tough to get if you're staying left just a bit. You really have to stay direct on this route. All bolts and anchors are in great shape this week.
    By NickMartel
    From: Tucson, Arizona
    Apr 1, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    If at the top you take the left side (up the gully/seam), it's 5.7, direct is solid 5.8(+) IMHO. Worth an extra half star (up to 1.5 *s) if done directly.
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    Oct 16, 2013
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Tricky finish - UK 5a.
    By William Thiry
    From: Lakewood, CO
    May 10, 2014
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    The last moves to the anchor are trickier than any move on 'Made In the Shade', which is rated 5.9-. All moves up to this point are pretty fun 5.6/7.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jun 18, 2014

    In October 2013, Dale Haas and I replaced the hardware at the anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
    By Ian Wymore
    From: Denver, CO
    Jun 1, 2016
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Mostly 5.7 moves until the end. Did the final moves straight on, and it was definitely tricky and felt 5.8/9. I later went up a second time on TR to clean the route and went right of the bolt line on the final moves. Slightly easier than the direct finish but way more fun in my opinion.
    By Paul Deger
    From: Colorado
    Aug 28, 2016

    A better name for this route may be "Fatal Attraction." It starts fun and easy 5.6-7 then goes crazy from the last bolt to the finish. I first tried straight up on lead and could not find any combination of feet and hands that felt solid enough to make the push to the anchors. Going way left into gully/crack offered enough to go up, then I went right to the anchors. Second time up on TR, went right of rope, into the black stain and found workable feet/hands to go up but would not have felt comfortable doing so on lead (5.9). Third time on TR, after having discovered the anchors to the left, did a variation of the rope line off the left anchors (way left of bolt line) which made for a fun more solid 5.8 experience bottom to top.
    I gave it a three due in part to many variations to play with.
    By Caleb Gruber
    From: Denver, CO
    Jun 25, 2017

    I am just getting into leading (have lead some 5.8s at North Table), and this route and Venice Beach next to it were very challenging leads! Really made me push myself, I tried so many hand and foot variations to get to the anchor and also took a fall/swing trying to make a move from the crack on the left, falling down a couple bolts. Tried straight from underneath and was able to manage on some very tenuous footing. Great practice for the nerves and a solid challenge!

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