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Holey Moley 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rhicard; 1990
Page Views: 4,164
Submitted By: eMurdock on May 25, 2004

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Mark gastons Holey Moley's hueco.


Holey Moley climbs through the obvious hole in the middle of the New Wave Wall and continues to the top of the formation. This is probably the easiest route on the New Wave Wall although it is one of the best. Climb small crimps to the hole. The start might be more difficult for shorter climbers. Climb past the hole on delicate moves past an optional tcu placement. Once on the ledge, continue on 5.9 climbing to the chains. Gets morning shade.


draws and an optional #1 TCU

Photos of Holey Moley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Holey Moley
Holey Moley
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic rope & rock photo
BETA PHOTO: Classic rope & rock photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Below the hole
Below the hole

Comments on Holey Moley Add Comment
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By iancevans
Oct 5, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This climb is fantastic! A bit run-out to the break, but the climbing is secure enough that it doesn't matter--even if you're at your limit, you should be fit enough to recover at the hueco so that you can get to the break safely and without much pump.

I thought this was as hard or ever-so-slightly-harder than several consensus 12a's on the mountain, but whatever, maybe my beta was off.
By iancevans
Oct 6, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Watched Matt climb it today and with his beta, 11d sounds right. Still harder than a couple 12a's I've done (like Forever in Bluejeans and Disfigured Foreigner; much bette than either, too).
By Matt Fowls
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 6, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

regardless, this is an awesome climb. good job on the onsight, ian!
By Mark J Gain
May 12, 2011

I had the luck and some great friends to cheer me on, to OS this great climb and still to this day find it to be a favorite for me on Lemmon (besides Lizards (Marm. direct) and and and and etc...). I still go back here and there to give it a go just because this wall has so many great sport routes and some good history that it keeps a calling. The rock is great and the routes are terrific. A must do!!!!
By DGraham
From: Dallas
Jul 26, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Since nobody has said it recently, this route is awesome!
Bring a blue tcu/mastercam. This route is not to be missed!
I'm newer to these grades but it seems the hueco provides a good enough rest to keep this route out of the 5.12 grade.

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