REI Community
Yak Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beckey route/Speedway T 
CardiYak Rhythm T 
East Face Cracks T 
Hole in My Heaven T 
Madness T 
Porcelain Chicken T 
Reality Check T 
SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World T 
Southwest Gully T 
West Ridge T 
Yak Check T 
Yak Crack T 

Hole in My Heaven 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 1700', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Denise Radke, Robert Bacon 1993
Page Views: 1,330
Submitted By: Dru on Aug 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Southeast face of Yak. HimH climbs the leftmost di...


This route follows the slim leftmost dihedral on the southeast face of Yak - the first dihedral left of the Porcelain Chicken dihedral. Gain the dihedral from the right as per Porcelain Chicken or from below by soloing up the endless opening slabs as per Madness. Climb four to five long pitches up the dihedral (5.7 through 5.9, some granular rock, gear to 4"). Climb a shorter pitch up the dihedral as it pinches out, to gain a slabby ledge between two large roofs - one below and one above.

Squeezed up in an undignified manner on this shelf between the two roofs, traverse the hanging slab leftwards (the crux, 10a with sparse pro). This eventually leads into Yak Crack's upper dihedral, although it is possible to continue hard left to gain the 5.11a fingercrack variation to Yak Check pioneered by Croft and Foweraker.


From the base of Yak below the Yak Crack start, follow the base of the slab up and right until the objective dihedral is visible and have at'er.

Walking off from the top is best.


Full rack to 4". Some belays may be bolted.

Comments on Hole in My Heaven Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About