REI Community

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
19th Nervous Breakdown T 
Beefeater T 
Bushwhack T 
Currey's Diagonal T 
Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 
Equilibrium T 
Existential Dilemma T 
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 
Morning Sickness T 
Narrow and Ugly T 
Oslund's Delight T 
Pipeline S 
Rainbow in the Dark T 
Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb) T,TR 
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton T 
Silver Surfer T 
Uncle Billy  
Up the Down Chimney T 
Veggie Eater S 
Very Narrow and Treesy T 
Wide and Ugly T 
William T 
Wright of Thick and Thin T 
Unsorted Routes:

Holdout Rock Climbing 

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Location: 41.15735, -105.37372 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,463
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 30, 1999
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: A view of the Holdout with respect to the Nautilus...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Between the main area and the Nautilus lies the Holdout, the closest a formation at Vedauwoo gets to rectangular. Although this formation has fewer routes than the Main Area or the Nautilus the high concentration of classic lines make for a mandatory visit. Mostly traditional lines, although a few high grade sport and mixed routes can be found. Classics include Arch Stanton (5.11d) on the SE side (lots of sun side) to Oslund's Delight (5.8), Currey's Diagnol (5.10b), Eleven Cent Moon (5.11d), Silver Surfer (5.9), Pipeline (5.12a) and the incomparable Beefeater (5.10b) on the NW side (late day sun).

Getting There 

Easiest approach is via the campground. One can park at the lot outside the main area and walk into the park and through the campground finding trails that lead to the extreme southern end of the Holdout, continue down and left to the NW face, or up and right to reach the SE face.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.3 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Holdout

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Holdout:
Morning Sickness   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Wright of Thick and Thin   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Narrow and Ugly   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Oslund's Delight   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
Existential Dilemma   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Silver Surfer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Veggie Eater   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
19th Nervous Breakdown   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Beefeater   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Currey's Diagonal   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Wide and Ugly   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Eleven Cent Moon   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pipeline   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Holdout

Featured Route For Holdout
Rock Climbing Photo: Tough fingers.  Photo by Vanessa Cassat.

Equilibrium V10-11 8A  Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Holdout
This is a sixty degree overhanging finger crack roof. Start on the obvious jug to the left of the crack where the crack is still a seam. You can top out at the horizontal about ten feet out via a big flake, which is quite fun, or for full value you can follow the crack all the way out the roof, topping out on a hand and fist crack. Going all the way out bumps the grade to hard V11. If you take the crack all the way out, puzzle out the right foot sequence and the rock that is close at the end...[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

Photos of Holdout Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: We encountered two of these as we were fleeing the...
We encountered two of these as we were fleeing the...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the north side of Holdout.  The faint righ...
BETA PHOTO: This is the north side of Holdout. The faint righ...

Comments on Holdout Add Comment
Show which comments
By Erik Wagg
Jun 15, 2004
I was climbing at the Holdout June 12, 2004. Someone (a lower form of life) stole all the Hangers from the top of all the climbs. We had to down climb a corner on the North-East end of the formation.
By Andy Johnson
Jul 10, 2004
I just wanted to say thanks to the cheap asshole who stole the hangers of all the anchors.
May 13, 2006
Just for clarification, most, if not all, the anchors have been replaced.
By KateC
Jun 12, 2008
I was out there last week, and there was one cold shut on the anchors for Bushwhack (or Narrow and Ugly or Wide and Ugly...). Not that I recommend hanging your life on a single piece, but the bolts are in great shape and we had no problem rapping off the one cold shut.

Please don't take it off, who ever is doing that.

Also, I wanted to add that it looks like the route labeling for the north end of the southeast face is a little off in the big red guidebook. Narrow and Ugly in the guidebook appears to point to a very thin seam which is NOT 5.8. The hand crack just to the right of it (which is un-labled in the book) is a nice 5.8.

Also, to get to these climbs, head up to the right side of the big ledge and scramble up a narrow gully (as described in the book). The left side of the ledge is a blank face.
By Ben Boykin
From: Cheyenne, WY
Jul 26, 2011
Current anchor situation, July 2011: NW Face: Still a good rap station atop "Beefeater". I haven't checked for the rap stations which are supposed to be above "Mad Cow Disease," "Pipeline," or "Currey's Diagonal." SE face: Slightly swiveling coldshuts atop the shared finish of "Wide & Ugly"/"Narrow & Ugly"/"Bushwack." Atop "Arch Stanton," a rusty chain and a hangerless buttonhead only. I did not check for slings or bolts atop "Flaming Blue Jesus." The rap stations I checked are all one-rope rappels (50-60 meter... 'go long,' like the QB says).

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