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Dozier Dome
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Holdless Horror 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: TM Herbert and Jeff Dozier
Page Views: 8,214
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Aug 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (125)
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BETA PHOTO: Holdless Horror. Start in the grass and follow the...

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  • Description 

    P1: Start on the face just right of the bush growing out of the bottom of the crack. Climb up to first horizontal ledge, or, further up to the next smaller one (80 or 100 feet?) and build a belay anchor. 5.6.
    P2: The "business" pitch. Climb up and mitigate impending horror by using the "holdless" terrain rather than get engulfed in the people eatin', imposing crack. Busy, but, never hard and the pro is decent if you take the time to find the money spots. 5.7.
    P3: The fun 5.6 pitch. Great climbing that gets steep and improbable looking, but, always a nice foot and/or hand hold to help you out.
    P4: Final easy fifth class romp to the top. Can climb far enough up to set belay for a safe walk off following the pitch. Low angle, one short roof near the end of the pitch. Great gear, but, somewhat spread out between bomber placements.

    Historically significant as the first technical rock climbing route on this Dome. Great name, too. Classic TMH.


    Climb is located on the west side of Dozier Dome. Look for the crack system, left of the big diagonal break in the wall, kind of in the middle of the big flat face, which extends all the way to the ground. Is a large green bush in the bottom of the crack. Crack is distinctive as its the only one on this side of the Dome that continues down below (and through) the horizontal ledge all the way to ground level. Prominent crack system viewable from a distance. Goes straight up.

    Summit area has great views of Cathedral Peak area and surrounding domes.

    The hike down is bonus, and, for some folks, easily as quality as the climbing. If conditions permit, hike to Cathedral Lake and then follow the water course down, taking the path of least resistance. Beautiful hike on its own. Near the bottom, where Dozier Dome starts to appear to melt into the forest on the climber's left, cut over to the base of the dome to pick up packs, if left at the base (and/or to pick up the well-marked climber's trail back to the car). Easy, fun hike with improbable positions and great scenery. Could spend a bunch of time playing around down climbing low angle friction faces, or, walking around to the left or right.


    Standard rack. Nuts and single set of cams from small (1 TCU) to a #4 camalot. No fixed gear. No anchors.

    Photos of Holdless Horror Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Flared crack but not difficult.
    BETA PHOTO: Flared crack but not difficult.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sometimes there is a snow slab surprise.
    BETA PHOTO: Sometimes there is a snow slab surprise.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor after 2nd pitch.
    Anchor after 2nd pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Belay at end of pitch 1
    Belay at end of pitch 1
    Rock Climbing Photo: First belay (photo credit Anne Marie).
    BETA PHOTO: First belay (photo credit Anne Marie).
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the first pitch, heading up the second...
    BETA PHOTO: At the first pitch, heading up the second...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sascha following p2 on Holdless Horror
    Sascha following p2 on Holdless Horror
    Rock Climbing Photo: Look ma, no holds!
    Look ma, no holds!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch of Holdless Horror.  Let 'er run.
    BETA PHOTO: Last pitch of Holdless Horror. Let 'er run.
    Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch of Holdless Horror.  First wide section ...
    BETA PHOTO: 3rd pitch of Holdless Horror. First wide section ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch of Holdless Horror.  Eeeek!  No holds, t...
    BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch of Holdless Horror. Eeeek! No holds, t...
    Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Holdless Horror.
    BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Holdless Horror.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Holdless Horror.  Prominent crack in center of pho...
    BETA PHOTO: Holdless Horror. Prominent crack in center of pho...

    Comments on Holdless Horror Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 22, 2016
    By Joe Dawson
    Jun 23, 2009
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I do not agree with the PG13 designation. I hate runout and I do not remember any on this route.
    By rhyang
    From: San Jose, CA
    Jul 7, 2009
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Hexes work great on this one; good for practice.
    By Rodger Raubach
    Jul 20, 2010
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    This climb is NOT PG13! It is very well protected with passive gear.
    By Jedidiah McClure
    From: Paso Robles CA
    Aug 29, 2010

    This route is really fun and easy. I'd give it 5.6. This is a great route for those learning to lead! This was one of my first multi-pitch leads and the ample holds made for a calm and confident climb. Protection is solid, I recall running it out about 15-20 feet several times, the many holds giving me the confidence to not zip it up. Anchors were easy to build. Ate '1 to '2 pieces, hexes worked well.

    The approach hike is a pleasant walk through the trees and the down-hike is also interesting.
    By Josh Hibbard
    From: Los Angeles Area, CA
    Sep 16, 2010
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    I climbed this last week with a friend (Anne Marie). It took me too long to find it on Mountain Project because I couldn't believe it was rated 5.7 PG-13 and was looking for the 5.6 climb on Dozier Dome. I didn't notice any runout and felt the climbing more 5.6. In my opinion, this would be a classic moderate climb if crack on the final pitch was more vertical. Unfortunately, the angle lays back a bit much on the final pitch. Solid placements throughout. I extended the anchor on the final belay about 20 feet to watch the second and avoid rope drag.
    By aaron hope
    From: Walnut Creek, CA
    Jan 2, 2011

    Don't get sucked into the wide crack too much. In my opinion it was much easier to stem and stay on the outside.
    By Jon Ruland
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Sep 10, 2011
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    5.7 pg13 that's a good one
    By Peter Pitocchi
    Jun 22, 2012

    Easy to find. Easy to climb. Easy to protect. Looong pitches....I used double set. My new favorite climb.
    By David Raines
    Jul 3, 2013
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    One of the most in-aptly named climbs ever. :)
    It has lots of holds, and is quite pleasant.

    All old-school routes need to be treated with respect, and you need some amount of crack and slab skills to ever feel comfortable on granite, but I remember thinking this was a moderate, well protected, fun climb. I was leading 5.9 consistently at the time, so a beginning leader may have a different experience.
    By butters
    From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
    Sep 23, 2013
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Fun Climb. did it on sept 18th. my 1st multi pitch lead. pretty mellow climbing with a few 5.7 moves. i also dont agree with the pg13 rating. there was a ton of gear placements. good 1st trad lead. easy walk off. the creek/waterfall was dry so made for an easy downclimb. lots of good knobs on the edge of the rack mixed with stemming makes it super easy on the wide parts of the crack.
    By William Nelson
    From: Cave Creek, AZ
    Jan 23, 2014

    This climb is definitely 5.6 G rated . great climb with fun moves, great pro, no runouts, in great environment. Only wish it had 6-7 pitches like the first half. Top pitch is 5.0. Awesome views. I'll do it again.
    By Tavis Ricksecker
    Jun 15, 2014
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Fun, mellow, and well protected.
    By Crimpanzee Shortt
    From: San Francisco, California
    Sep 16, 2014
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Definitely not runout. Pushing the limits of 5.6 (might be a bit much for a first 5.6 lead), but easier than Bull Dozier and definitely not as good.
    By Chad Lawver
    From: Yosemite Village, California
    Jul 7, 2015

    Found an overcammed C3 at the top of P1. If it's yours, let me know the size of the cam and the color of the tape on it. I'll mail it to you if you're not local . . .
    By Dean Mao
    Jul 27, 2015

    We left an overcammed #5 on P2. If anyone is able to extract it, message me for a reward; it belongs to our trad teacher. It's over 10 years old and has lots of sentimental value. One of the students in our class accidentally pushed it in too deep when cleaning gear. Several parties after our group were unable to extract it because it was stuck so deep. A guide that attempted to clean it mentioned that a hammer might be needed because a few rock crystals kept it from coming out.
    By Katie River
    From: Oakland, CA
    Jun 6, 2016
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Be very careful about the decent next to the slab waterfall. There is a section that requires very delicate downclimbing/shuffling on slab. It would be a 30ft fall to a flat ledge. Perhaps in a different time in the season, one would be able to find other easier paths on the left, closer to the water.
    By Matt Miccioli
    From: Stanford, CA
    Sep 8, 2016
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    The climb protects well the entire way and is very beginner friendly. We did it in three pitches with a 60m rope. A good little route! We found the descent straight-forward because the waterfall was not running, having crossed over to the trees to skip the steepest part of the slabs.
    By Bailey Smith
    Sep 12, 2016
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    I guess I solo'd to the second pitch - that would be PG13 I guess. The rest of it protects very well. Super fun.
    By SWGuillemot
    Oct 11, 2016

    Like others I was a bit surprised by the PG13 rating after climbing this, but I can think of two reasons for the rating. First, the last pitch is a bit run out in places, but it is such a low grade at that point that you can run out the last half of the pitch without any real concern. If you only place cams, you might find the pro a little thin. I used 8 nuts and 2 cams on the second pitch (and then two more for the second belay anchor because I saw many more good nut placements than good cam placements. A second set of nuts might come in handy for this route. YMMV.
    By Lin Robinson
    Nov 22, 2016

    The last pitch could conceivably be considered PG13 (I placed probably 4 pieces over the better part of a rope length) but the climbing is super easy. if you scramble up the initial ramp at the bottom you can do it in 3 pitches. If you stick to the crack and forgo using faceholds, the climb becomes much more interesting. Overall its a pretty good route, I'd probably recommend it as an active rest day activity.

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