Type: Trad
FA: Tom Armstrong 1989
Page Views: 1,266 total · 6/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Nov 29, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

When i last did this route it still required trad gear but had 2 bolt as well... A lot can happen at Rumney in a few years so let me know if more bolts have been added...

This route is a second pitch for either the Holderness corner (5.8 trad) or Holderness Buttress (5.10 sport) routes that end on top of the Holderness buttress just right of Flesh For Lulu...

From the anchors of either climb head out right and wander a little up past 2 bolts toward a horizontal crack below a small right facing corner... the climbing on the first half of the route isn't too tough, the crux is at the top so save your strength... I placed gear in the horizontal and pumped my way up the challenging finish moves to the chain anchors... There are a few options of how to do the moves up top but it is steep and a little pumpy... It Isn't specific to the grade but I remember it being about middle range 5.10

Location Suggest change

Starts at the top of the Holderness Buttress right of Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b)

Protection Suggest change

2 bolts and trad gear to the chains... Bring a selection of cams and nuts...

Again if there have been bolts added please post and I'll update the info...

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