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Holderness Corner
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Holderness Arete 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong 3/88
Page Views: 2,784
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 17, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Most of the route is visible, including hornet'...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Climb both sides of the arete which is quite techy and challenging... The crux comes at mid height and can be done a few ways with slight variation in the grade... A good convenient warm up for the harder stuff to the left...

I have seen less experienced climbers get stumped at the crux numerous times do to the technical nature of the climbing... So if 5.10 is your limit just be ready to climb with your head...


The arete to the right of Holderness School Corner (5.8)...


6 bolts to Quick Clips

Photos of Holderness Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob pausing to chalk and to scope out the crux mov...
Rob pausing to chalk and to scope out the crux mov...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 13, 2016
By S. Neoh
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I climbed this route entirely on the slab side today (mostly to the right of the bolts). Pretty nice and casual. Maybe one 10a move at the crux. Easier than staying mostly on the arete.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Apr 14, 2012

I hardly used the left side of the arete, save for reaching around for the occasional hold. I also felt the first bolt was unnecessarily high. I would recommend an additional bolt maybe 8 feet below the first.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2012

Haven't climbed this yet, but the guide book recommends a cam to cover the start of the route.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The only move with any difficulty below the first bolt is the very first move off the ground. It is low enough that even a bolt would probably not keep you off the ground, a good spot from the belayer would do just as good!
By ntableman
Aug 8, 2012

LOVE THIS CLIMB! I lead it last weekend, there seems to be a new bolt low down on the climb. The crux is so fun and there is a great hold setup. I am about 5 8 and a small horn nab me in the "boys" on the crux. have been warned!
By slk
From: Reno, NV
Aug 20, 2012

Did Tom Armstrong approve it?

Skip the new bolt... seriously... better yet, chop it...
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 20, 2012

The route was done 24 years ago and NOW it needs another bolt ??? Shameful
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If there is in fact a new bolt here, it is just a matter of time before someone removes it. I really hope nobody added a bolt...
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 21, 2012

I don't know anything about the bolt, but enough with the unilateral chopping threats by people who aren't even the FA party. If there is an issue, than it should be brought up with the RCA so things are handled properly and bolt wars don't ensue.

By the way, a number of people have been hurt on the bottem of that route, so it is not completely irrational for somebody to think it needs one, though I don't.
By S. Neoh
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I am with Mark on this one, much better to work with RCA on this one if anyone feels strongly about the allegedly added bolt. When I last checked, TomA is on the RCA board so it even makes more sense.
I remember the very first time I got on this route I brought a cam along to protect the start.
By ntableman
Sep 2, 2012

Allegedly? When I added the note it was so new that all the dust was still around it and it got all over us. I do not recall, however, if it is an additional bolt or simply a replacement. In my photos, I only have the upper part of the climb. The start of this climb is indeed sketchy, so if it were additionally placed, it makes sense. That whole area is already marred with bolts, seems hardly worth the stress to mar it with chopped nubs.
By Cryptic C62
From: Lawton, OK
Apr 19, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I was surprised to find that the description mentions climbing on both sides of the arete. I stayed on the right side. Never saw an opportunity or a reason to move to the left side.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 15, 2015

Cryptic, you grab the corner of the arete with your left hand, and —that's the extent of it. It's like Ten of Spades up at the New Wave.
By Sergey Shevelev
From: San Francisco, CA
May 31, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Except for one move at the crux, this seems easy for the grade, but still fun.
By Lev Kisselman
Jun 11, 2016

I could have sworn I saw a second, shorter pitch from the anchors.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 13, 2016

That would be Holderness Finish 5.10 :)

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