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Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

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Holcomb Valley Pinnacles Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 7,500'
Location: 34.3124, -116.8804 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006  with updates from DeniseYavas and 1 more
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Rustic cabin in Holcomb Valley, Big Bear

Description 

The Holcomb Valley Pinnacles are located just north of Big Bear Lake in the eastern end of the scenic Holcomb Valley, an area rich in history and diversions for the outdoor enthusiast. Popular for it's numerous sport routes, this area is a moderate mecca with 75% of the 400+ routes being 5.10 and under in difficulty.

Although the elevation of the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles (HVP) ranges between 7400-7600 feet it's not just a summer climbing area, with good climbing available all year-round depending upon the severity of the winter. Summers can sometimes be hot, making those shady climbs all the more attractive, while early and late season climbing can be ideal with relatively few climbers and few distractions but the sound of the wind in the pines.

The rock at the Pinnacles is a heavily-featured granite that ranges in quality from excellent to fair with the majority of it being quite good. Routes that look difficult often go at a moderate grade because of the highly-featured rock - a good example of this is the popular Coyote Crag.

Here's a list of sport routes in the area from 5.3 to 5.12d (click to activate).

Getting There (Southern Parking Area) 

These directions will get you to the southern parking area, which is recommended if you are driving a low-clearance vehicle, and/or planning on climbing at the southern/central Pinnacles.

  • Van Dusen Canyon Approach - This, the most popular approach, is up scenic Van Dusen Canyon (3N09) which is quite rocky and sees a fair amount of traffic on the weekends. Just past the pavement's end (about 0.5 miles up) is a gate that gets locked after the first snowfall and that re-opens in the Spring when the road is dry enough.

Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a left (heading west). Drive 0.6 miles, passing the Holcomb Valley Campground on the right, and make a right onto 3N07. Drive north along 3N07 passing Wilbur's Grave, a Boy Scout Camp on the left and several large dips in the road (often several feet deep with water in the early spring) until you can make a right which parallels a fence on the right. Follow this road (3N07) until it ends at a large parking area just below Parking Lot Rock.

  • Baldwin Lake Approach - Useful if coming from the desert via Highway 18 out of Lucerne Valley.

Highway 18 to Big Bear and then make a right (staying on Hwy 18) heading towards Baldwin Lake. Circle around Baldwin Lake (often dry in the summer) and then make a right onto Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09). Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a left (heading west). Drive 0.6 miles, passing the Holcomb Valley Campground on the right, and make a right onto 3N07. Drive north along 3N07 passing Wilbur's Grave, a Boy Scout Camp on the left and several large dips in the road (often several feet deep in the early spring) until you can make a right which parallels a fence on the right. Follow this road (3N07) until it ends at a large parking area just below Parking Lot Rock.

  • Polique Canyon Approach - A fairly direct, but bumpy approach that is open all year depending upon the road conditions. This way avoids the traffic of the more popular Van Dusen Canyon and is faster if coming from the west.

Take Polique Canyon Road (2N09) north as it climbs along it's scenic namesake canyon, crest a hill and then descend the backside to a long straightaway which passes a large Boy Scout Camp to the west. Make a right onto 3N16, go up a small rise and make an immediate left onto 3N07. Drive north along 3N07 passing Wilbur's Grave, a Boy Scout Camp on the left and several large dips in the road (often several feet deep with water in the early spring) until you can make a right which parallels a fence on the right. Follow this road (3N07) until it ends at a large parking area just below Parking Lot Rock.

Getting There (Northern Parking Area) 

These directions will get you to the northern parking area, which is recommended if you are driving a higher-clearance vehicle, and/or planning on climbing at the central/northern Pinnacles

  • Van Dusen Canyon Approach - This, the most popular approach, is up scenic Van Dusen Canyon (3N09) which is quite rocky and sees a fair amount of traffic on the weekends. Just past the pavement's end (about 0.5 miles up) is a gate that gets locked after the first snowfall and that re-opens in the Spring when the road is dry enough.

Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a right (heading east). Drive 1.4 miles and make a left onto 3N32. Follow this as it winds it's way north and then eventually west until you come to a fork in the road with a cairn. Make a left here, right takes you onto the John Bull Trail, and continue as it heads west and then back south. The last bit of the road passes between some boulders which larger trucks/SUV's may not fit through, so drive at your own risk (parking is available along the road before the boulders if needed). Continue a short distance to a large parking area near Wilbur's Tombstone.

  • Baldwin Lake Approach - Useful if coming from the desert via Highway 18 out of Lucerne Valley.

Highway 18 to Big Bear and then make a right (staying on Hwy 18) heading towards Baldwin Lake. Circle around Baldwin Lake (often dry in the summer) and then make a right onto Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09). Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a right (heading east). Drive 1.4 miles and make a left onto 3N32. Follow this as it winds it's way north and then eventually west until you come to a fork in the road with a cairn. Make a left here, right takes you onto the John Bull Trail, and continue as it heads west and then back south. The last bit of the road passes between some boulders which larger trucks/SUV's may not fit through, so drive at your own risk (parking is available along the road before the boulders if needed). Continue a short distance to a large parking area near Wilbur's Tombstone.

  • Polique Canyon Approach - A fairly direct, but bumpy approach that is open all year depending upon the road conditions. This way avoids the traffic of the more popular Van Dusen Canyon and is faster if coming from the west.

Take Polique Canyon Road (2N09) north as it climbs along it's scenic namesake canyon, crest a hill and then descend the backside to a long straightaway which passes a large Boy Scout Camp to the west. Make a right onto 3N16, go up a small rise and continue east (passing the Holcomb Valley Campground on your left) for 1.8 miles until possible to make a left onto 3N32. Follow this as it winds it's way north and then eventually west until you come to a fork in the road with a cairn. Make a left here, right takes you onto the John Bull Trail, and continue as it heads west and then back south. The last bit of the road passes between some boulders which larger trucks/SUV's may not fit through, so drive at your own risk (parking is available along the road before the boulders if needed). Continue a short distance to a large parking area near Wilbur's Tombstone.

Camping 

Camping is free and legal almost anywhere in the forest surrounding the Pinnacles, but there are a number of already established campsites near the northern and southern parking areas, as well as scattered sites to the west of Parking Lot Rocks.


As an alternative there are numerous pay campgrounds in the Big Bear area, with the Holcomb Valley Campground ($21 a night), being the closest to the climbing area.

Climbing Gear 

If sport climbing nothing more than a dozen draws are needed and if climbing some of the traditional routes a standard rack to 3" should suffice for the majority of the routes.

Guidebooks 

Hidden Treasures East is the only comprehensive guidebook for this area and includes the majority of new routes in the area.

The Southern California Sport Climbing Guide has a limited amount of information on the area making it more of a "select" guide, but be warned that it's full of errors (and not just the Holcomb Valley section).

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.7 miles from here

347 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',79],['2 Stars',173],['1 Star',91],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',36],['5.7',33],['5.8',37],['5.9',41],['5.10',131],['5.11',38],['5.12',9],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',6],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Holcomb Valley Pinnacles:
Gold Standard   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Central Pinnacles : Gold Wall
Bye Crackie   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Central Pinnacles : Coyote Crag
Coyotes at Sunset   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Central Pinnacles : Coyote Crag
Shoot at Will   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Central Pinnacles : Tombstone Pit
Black Magic Poodle   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Central Pinnacles : Coyote Crag
Golden Poodle   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Central Pinnacles : Coyote Crag
Claim Jumper   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Central Pinnacles : Claim Jumper Wall
One Armed Bandit   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Central Pinnacles : Claim Jumper Wall
Vertical Epic   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Pinnacles North : Stone Wall
Powder Keg   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Ricochet   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Central Pinnacles : Pistol Whipped Wall
Pistol Pete   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Central Pinnacles : Doc Holliday Wall
Tombstone Shadow   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Central Pinnacles : Tombstone Pit
Lost Orbit   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Lost Orbit Rock : Lost Orbit Rock - East Face
Mighty Quinn   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - West Face
Doc's Holiday   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Central Pinnacles : Doc Holliday Wall
Coyotes in the Henhouse   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Central Pinnacles : Claim Jumper Wall
Long Arm of The Law   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - West Face
Lunar Eclipse   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Lost Orbit Rock : Lost Orbit Rock - East Face
The Incinerator   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Central Pinnacles : Incinerator Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Featured Route For Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Susan weaving down the Lost Highway (5.11a), Holco...

Lost Highway 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  California : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Lost Orbit Rock - East Face
This is an easier, alternate finish to Road Crew that clips the lower two bolts on that route and then finishes straight up.Preclip the first bolt bolt on Road Crew and then, instead of doing the boulder problem crux of that route, climb the crack (5.10) just to the right. Steep and awkward jamming/liebacking gain a good edge and the second bolt, which is where Road Crew cuts left. From here launch straight up the slightly overhung wall on positive incuts (crux) to a rockover move onto the f...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Holcomb Valley Pinnacles Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Keli Balo climbs Coyotes in the Henhouse (5.10d), ...
Keli Balo climbs Coyotes in the Henhouse (5.10d), ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Holcomb Valley Central Pinnacles from on top of Ve...
Holcomb Valley Central Pinnacles from on top of Ve...
Rock Climbing Photo: So many routes
So many routes
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking in the view of Holcomb valley after a top o...
Taking in the view of Holcomb valley after a top o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Straight-forward route from scout camp to the clim...
BETA PHOTO: Straight-forward route from scout camp to the clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cyclops is ever watching. Photo by Ginny.
Cyclops is ever watching. Photo by Ginny.
Rock Climbing Photo: leading "Lost orbit"  photo by Adam Kimm...
leading "Lost orbit" photo by Adam Kimm...
Rock Climbing Photo: Snow and boulders, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Snow and boulders, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: My first TR 11a The Long Arm of the Law, Motherlod...
My first TR 11a The Long Arm of the Law, Motherlod...
Rock Climbing Photo: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Wild Rose (Rosa californica), Holcomb Valley Pinna...
Wild Rose (Rosa californica), Holcomb Valley Pinna...
Rock Climbing Photo: This sign is visible just after you turn onto Van ...
BETA PHOTO: This sign is visible just after you turn onto Van ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mountain Desert Sage (Salvia pachyphylla), Holcomb...
Mountain Desert Sage (Salvia pachyphylla), Holcomb...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the crux on Deer Lick (5.10a), Holcomb ...
Just below the crux on Deer Lick (5.10a), Holcomb ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Clouds on a warm Summer's day at the Pinnacles.
Clouds on a warm Summer's day at the Pinnacles.
Rock Climbing Photo: Double rainbow, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Double rainbow, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Mild winter conditions, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Mild winter conditions, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fire after thunderstorm - Sept. 1, 2007
Fire after thunderstorm - Sept. 1, 2007
Rock Climbing Photo: Mandie rapping off Coyote Wall, Holcomb Valley Pin...
Mandie rapping off Coyote Wall, Holcomb Valley Pin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route from the South Lot - March 23.
Route from the South Lot - March 23.
Rock Climbing Photo: Indian say "this way"
Indian say "this way"
Rock Climbing Photo: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Winter road conditions, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Winter road conditions, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Show All 32 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Holcomb Valley Pinnacles Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2017
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Sep 4, 2006
One of my favorite areas locally in SoCal. I have many happy memories of this place. My only complaint is that some bolts have been placed where natural protection could have been afforded easily.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 28, 2007
With a high concentration of well protected, mostly moderate climbs, this fun area is very unique for many a SoCal climber. Highly recommended for the intermediate climber; with good holds, and great protection, no matter what the grade (e.g., 5.6 through 5.11).
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Aug 6, 2007
Van Dusen Canyon Approach speedometer marks: After turning onto Van Dusen Canyon Rd it's 3.5 miles from pavement's end to 3N16. Head right. We didn't see a sign for 3N16, but it cuts out into an open meadow after a hundred yards or so. 1.5 miles to 3N32 (labeled) and turn left. 1.5 miles to the Northern Parking area (turn left at small rock pile).

Can be done in a regular car up to the narrow boulder passage if driven very carefully. Our subaru had no problem. Depending on your speed it's about 20-35 minutes driving on dirt roads, with only 1.5 miles of somewhat slow driving.
By BGraham
From: Fullerton, CA
Dec 16, 2008
Is HVP doable in the winter? How is access when theres some snow? I want to get up there in a couple weeks and dont want to get shut down. thanks!
By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Dec 31, 2008
Climbing is possible every month of the year as long as you wait a few days after a storm and have 4wd to get back there.

The best way in is via Polique Canyon Road, but in a high snow year (this year might qualify) you might not make it due to accumulated snow on some of the north-facing slopes midway on the drive up the canyon.
By SteezeMeggie
From: Big Bear City, CA
Apr 13, 2010
I hiked from Van Deusen Canyon in Big Bear City to the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles on 04/10/10. It was a sunny, yet windy day. The Pinnacles are located in a sunny and secluded area. There were two other people there, serious climber/campers. I climbed Coyote Crag only, the rock was strong and had great holds. It is a great place to go for beginner climbers. The winds were around 40mph, but that was a special occasion since we had storms blowing in. I would suggest the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles for all levels of climbers, there is something for everyone and enough room for it all. You're in the middle of no where, it's great!

I hiked out from Van Deusen Canyon in Big Bear City, went left on Holcomb Valley Rd. (3N16) took 3N07 past Wilbur's grave, looped right from 3N43, took me around four hours to get there. Climbed. Headed home and took the trail across to the cabin to 3N16 to Van Deusen, hike home was around two hours.
By jack howard
Mar 27, 2011
one of the best sport areas in socal. a must for climbers 5.10-12 range. motherload wall, doc holiday wall, and claimjumperwall best. those walls have 2 days worth on them. many others too. lost orbit good too
By RAZORsharp
From: Carlsbad CA
Jun 27, 2011
The North Parking lot is riddled with camp fires. NO CAMP FIRES. it is a national forest with signs posted everywhere! stoves are okay, charcoal and firewood collecting are ILLEGAL. Lets keep the access we have to this beautiful crag by respecting the rules placed by knowledgeable rangers. Gusting winds and dry pine needle beds do not mix well!
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 4, 2011
I'll second that. 4x4ers and climbers alike. Any climbers camping there should educate.

Just try to imagine this place being gutted.
By Derrick Hales
Aug 30, 2011
Wondering how close you can park up to the Central Pinnacles area. Going camping soon, first time at the Pinnacles. Let me know if anyone has info on where the closest parking area is.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Sep 1, 2011
Derrick you can get pretty darn close if you have a high clearance 4x4, by taking the northern approach you can park at Wilbur's Tombstone and camp thereabouts. Otherwise, if you take the southern approach you'll be camping about 20 minutes from the central area.
By Derrick Hales
Sep 1, 2011
Thanks for the help! Would a 4x2 suv make it through the northern approach to the Central Pinnacles?
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Sep 2, 2011
As long as you have good clearance you should be okay if you drive carefully.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jul 9, 2012
Not sure how the 4x4 road is, but it looked possible to drive in a ways and camp closer to the central area - there was a small camper parked about halfway between parking lot and central area. Getting to Parking Lot Rock is fine for any vehicle probably. Polique Canyon Road approach was easy and smooth. It was hot, but compfy in the shade and cold at night. Neat area.
By Paul Doherty
Nov 25, 2012
Here is a map I made for the area - should be helpful.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jan 15, 2013
Paul thanks for the GIS map - Thunderbird Wall is mis-located; it should be opposite Claim Jumper Wall. Either that or rename it as Skyy Slab.
By spencerstewart Stewart
From: Big Bear Lake, CA
May 20, 2014
Hey all! Some of us in Big Bear started a climbing store in Fawnskin. If you ever need anything, the prices aren't inflated or anything, and 5% of all sales goes towards cleaning up local crags like Holcomb Valley Pinnacles. Cheers!! And let me know if you have any serious suggestions. bearclimbing.com
Rock Climbing Photo: Little new climbing store in Big Bear.
Little new climbing store in Big Bear.
By Phil Esra
Jun 15, 2014
Approaching the north parking area from the south--you can get within a couple hundred yards in a 2003 Toyota Corolla. There is one mandatory scrape over an embedded boulder in a narrow section of the trail, and the rest of the driving is slow and tricky.

There's no good reason to do this--it saves a few minutes of walking, maybe, at risk of getting stuck or damaging your vehicle (hello, aluminum VW oil pan). But in case you were wondering, it can be done.

(Derrick, yes, lots of alternatives, well documented on MP, check it out!)
By Zachary Falkner
From: Missoula, MT
Jun 19, 2016
Holcomb Valley Campground is $21 a night as of June 2016
By Alex Fletcher
From: San Clemente, CA
Jul 23, 2016
I've been to Holcomb Valley on four separate occasions in the last couple months and have not climbed the same route twice or had any lack of things to climb in any given style. There is tons to do here and every trip is different. If staying out of the sun is your goal there's always a different wall to choose from each day that will keep you in shade. The camping is nice and comfortably cool temperatures grace you at night even in mid summer. The busiest I've ever seen it was July 4th weekend. Where wait times could add up, other times I've been there I could count the number of other people I saw on one hand or even none at all. If you're thinking of planning a trip here, absolutely do come out and enjoy.
By Brian Chastain
Jun 5, 2017
Visited 6/4/17 This place is a total joke. Rephrase: The people frequenting this place are a total joke. I haven't been here in three-four years and this place is a shit show..............literally. People's shit not even buried all over, tampons everywhere, stacks of trash bags people didn't even take home everywhere, trash, trash and more trash. The attitudes people have there were something else too. I recommended to someone they not put there baby in a baby seat at the bottom of Coyote Crag 5' from the wall and she replied, "I'm out here 5 days a week." I didn't even acknowledge or engage in any more with her. Apparently if you go here 5 days a week, rocks will magically not break off and fall on your baby, people will not drop quickdraws on your baby and no one will ever fall on you baby............she is impervious to accidents.

I'm no super crusher and never will be. I'm a weekend warrior at best now. The SoCal climbing seen is a mockery for this exact reason. I understand I'll be bastardized for saying all this, but going to places like Holcomb seeing how its treated and with people's attitudes here I can't help it.
By Ziad Shahin
Jul 6, 2017
Drove to the northern parking lot in a 2010 Outback 07/01/17. With some relatively careful driving I had no problems making it and never bottomed out.
By Ken S
Sep 3, 2017
Found an earring on Bird of Prey on Thunderbird wall. Message me for a picture of it if you lost one.

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