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YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 4,280
Submitted By: GMBurns on Jul 21, 2008

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Climb the shallow, right-facing corner and step right, following the bolts. Then climb the path of least resistance straight up to the top. A 70m rope or doubles / twins are needed to get down.


On the right side of the Hogwild crag, take a left where the path meets the crag and walk uphill to where the path again meets the cliff. There should be a large, left-facing corner about 20 feet your right. Climb the shallow right-facing corner straight up the dikes to the chains above.


Mostly bolted, but small to medium sized cams work well at the top for extra protection.

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By Rick Casey
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Sep 23, 2008

Did this yesterday, and the crux was certainly getting past the first and second bolts, where the face moves felt more like 5.8 than 5.7 -- well protected, but thin moves for the grade.
By SuperDave
Jun 16, 2012

A very good climb, hard for the grade in my opinion. I used a small cam placement before the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and nuts and cams higher up. The gear is small and tricky on this climb, but you can get a lot in if you work at it. The first part is classic Lover's Leap balancy dike mantling. The flake for the top 30 feet is very positive and a fantastic finish to this climb. Need two ropes to rap unless you have a 70 meter rope.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 6, 2012

Not the best .7 at the Leap as the Supertopo claims, but a nice mixed line nonetheless.

I do not think this would be a good route for a 5.7/5.8 leader due to the committing run-outs.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Sep 14, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Needs a confident approach and tricky to get good gear in. UK grade probably HVS 4c - harder than I would expect for "5.7".
By Elizabeth Leddy
May 29, 2013

I actually loved this route and the adrenaline rush from finishing it help it earn its stars. sustained and runout for sure - good adrenaline rush. I was SO grateful I had a set of offset nuts for this.
By AndrewB
From: Davis, CA
Jul 23, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Felt like there was one tough move (thin hands and feet) right at the first bolt. Everything else felt 5.7. Placed two nuts before the first bolt, then a few cams above the last bolt.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jan 28, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Gotta agree with some of the other posters. You should be a confident 5.7 (or maybe even 5.8) leader. The start before the slab requires proficiency at placing gear and the slab section is more sporty than runout. Though I sure was happy to grab that flake after the slab. A great single pitch climb and a worthwhile tick.
By Pavel Burov
From: Russia
Jun 29, 2015

Technically it is an easy climb with a lot of variations to the left or to the right. Although it would be a kind of "bold" climb for inexperienced 5.7 leader. Be sure you are confident at the grade.

70m rope is barely enough to rappel down. Watch your rope ends! Some 70m ropes are shorter, some are longer.

To TR the fun climb to the left elongate the anchor with four or so double shoulder slings and bring a couple mid to hand size cams to set a directional.
By Crimpanzee Shortt
From: San Francisco, California
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Agree with AndrewB. Move at the first bolt felt like 5.8 or harder. I don't see how the climb just to the left of this could be rated harder.
By Vlada Matena
Oct 14, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

After rappelling with two 60m ropes joined by a knot, do not pull your rope directly down to the start of the route. If you do this, the rope might get stuck in the cracks under the anchor (this happened to me and I had to re-climb the route to unstuck it). It is better to move 15 - 20 feet to left and pull the rope down from there.

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