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Hogum Fork

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Hogum's Heroes T 
Thunderbolt Ridge T 

Hogum Fork Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 10,000'
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ari Menitove on Jul 10, 2006


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Joe Hatch on the approach to Hogum's Heroes summer...

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Hogum Fork is a subdrainage on the south side of Little Cottonwood Canyon, located between Maybird Gulch on the east and Bells Canyon/Coalpit Gulch on the east. The Pfeifferhorn (Little Matterhorn on the quad map) is located at the head of Hogum Fork on its southeast edge. In the winter, Hogum Fork offers outstanding skiing, including runs like the Hypodermic Needle, the Hogum 200, and the Northwest Couloir of the Pfeifferhorn. In summer, Hogum Fork offers at least one rock climbing route in a spectacular remote high alpine setting. The granite here is similar to that in nearby Lone Peak Cirque.

Getting There 

The best way to approach Hogum Fork is to start at the White Pine Trailhead (just below Snowbird) in Little Cottonwood Canyon. After almost a mile, take the right most trail towards Red Pine Lake. After a another mile and a half or so, take a right on a foot bridge and follow the trail for another mile into Maybird Gulch to where the trail ends at some small lakes with a great view of the Pfeifferhorn.

From here, it's pretty much all talus hopping. Angle up and south southwest to the low spot of the North Ridge of the Pfeifferhorn. Once you're over this ridge, hike down the short, steep, and prickerbush infested slope into Hogum Fork. Expect ~2 hrs plus or minus change and about 2500 vertical feet to get to this point from the White Pine Trailhead.

Climbing Season

For the Little Cottonwood Canyon area.

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hogum Fork

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hogum Fork:
Thunderbolt Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 800'   
Hogum's Heroes   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 750'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hogum Fork

Featured Route For Hogum Fork
Rock Climbing Photo: Hogum's Heroes is on clean face below the tallest ...

Hogum's Heroes 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Hogum Fork
Hogum's Heroes is an awesome route in a remote alpine wilderness setting. It's my favorite multi-pitch route in the Wasatch. It's relatively long, has mostly great rock, and is in one of the most spectacular and tucked away corners of the range. This route is packed with lots of sustained 5.10 range cracks with really fun stemming and balancey moves. You'll love it.That being said, the first pitch sucks. It's loose, scary, and has marginal protection. Luckily, it clocks in at about 5.9, and...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Hogum Fork Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Water at the end of the cirque. This is below and ...
Water at the end of the cirque. This is below and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Planet Rock, south end.
Planet Rock, south end.
Rock Climbing Photo: Thunder Mt. North at sunset
Thunder Mt. North at sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Falls on the approach via Hogum Fork
Falls on the approach via Hogum Fork

Comments on Hogum Fork Add Comment
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By Rob T
Jul 24, 2006
If you're going to hike all the way out there, you might as well check out the plane wreckage mentioned in the Ruckman guide. If you're standing at the base of Hogum's Heros, the pieces are about 150 yds down slope over your right shoulder. None of the pieces are too big these days, but still an interesting sight.
By kent w
Feb 9, 2009
An alternative approach from someone who thinks this is the hardest approach of all time.

Do not go into Maybird, but continue up Redpine like you are going to climb the Pfeifferhorn. At the pass, start traversing across the south face of the Pfeifferhorn. The start is steep but reasonable, after several hundred yards it turns into flat alpine fields with lots of water. Just continue across until the Col at the top of Hogum. It is very easy to find, as the west ridge of the Pfeifferhorn basically stops there. At the Col, leave backpack, food etc. and descend into Hogum with your rack, rope, and the shirt on your back (hardmen were there rock shoes, but I don't recommend it). You can rope up to get down into Hogum, but I 3rd classed it and it seemed OK. From the base of the Col, cross a short section of scree to the base of the climb. At the top, just walk the ridge back to your pack (maybe 1 mile) of easy walking with a little ridge traverse.

If you look at a topo you can see the approach fairly easily. It saves you a lot of up and down, up Redpine, down Maybird, up the north ridge, down into Hogum, and even more importantly the very tiresome traverse across the scree fields in Hogum.

You will actually see the airplane impact location, with a few pieces still on the rock on the last pitch to the rim.

BTW, this is a huge day and a amazing route, a Pennings masterpiece. All pitches are hard and take route finding skills.
By sam123456789
Oct 8, 2009
and if you see a fixed nut, you are a ways to the right of the beginning of heroes. THAT route is called astrochoss and is not recommended. thought you should know, it's thrown more than one party off route.

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